Can I grow lilies alongside in containers?

Yes, you can absolutely grow lilies in containers, making them an excellent choice for patios, balconies, or small gardens where ground space is limited. Growing lilies in pots offers flexibility, allowing you to move them for optimal sun exposure, protect them from garden pests, and even extend their beauty by bringing them indoors as cut flowers. With the right pot, soil, and care, container-grown lilies can be just as stunning as their in-ground counterparts.

What type of lily is best for container growing?

While many lily types can technically be grown in containers, certain characteristics make some varieties much better suited for container growing than others. The ideal lily for a pot is generally compact, sturdy, and offers reliable, show-stopping blooms without becoming too unwieldy.

Here are the best types of lilies for containers:

1. Asiatic Lilies:

   • Characteristics: These are some of the earliest to bloom, typically in early to mid-summer. They are known for their vibrant, often upward-facing, unscented flowers. Asiatic lilies come in a huge range of colors.
   • Why they're great for containers: They are generally more compact (ranging from 1-4 feet tall), have sturdy stems that usually don't require staking, and are very prolific bloomers. They also tend to be quite hardy.
   • Best for: Beginners, vibrant color, easy care. You can find many Asiatic lily bulbs for containers.

2. Oriental Lilies:

   • Characteristics: Known for their large, often intensely fragrant, and exotic-looking flowers that bloom mid to late summer. They come in white, pink, red, and bicolor combinations.
   • Why they're great for containers: While generally taller (3-6 feet) than Asiatics, many cultivars are bred to be more compact or have very strong stems. Their dramatic blooms make a powerful statement in a pot. The fragrance is intoxicating.
   • Best for: Fragrance, large dramatic blooms. Consider 'Stargazer' or 'Casa Blanca' which are popular Oriental lily bulbs.

3. LA Hybrid Lilies (Longiflorum x Asiatic):

   • Characteristics: A cross between Easter Lilies (Longiflorum) and Asiatics. They combine the larger flower size and elegant form of Easter Lilies with the wide color range and hardiness of Asiatics. They are typically unscented or lightly scented.
   • Why they're great for containers: They are usually mid-sized (2-4 feet), have very strong stems, and boast an excellent flower count. They offer a good balance of size, beauty, and ease of care.

4. Trellis/Patio Lilies (Dwarf Hybrids):

   • Characteristics: These are specific cultivars bred to be very short (1-2 feet tall), making them perfectly sized for smaller pots and front-of-border placement.
   • Why they're great for containers: Their dwarf nature means they require no staking, are resistant to toppling, and fit neatly on windowsills, tables, or small patios.
   • Best for: Small spaces, no staking needed.

Lilies to be Cautious with in Containers:

• Trumpet Lilies & Orienpets (OT Hybrids): While stunning and fragrant, many grow very tall (4-8+ feet) and would require very large, heavy pots and substantial staking to prevent toppling in windy conditions.
• Species Lilies: Some are suitable, but their specific needs can be more demanding, and their size/form might vary widely.

For successful container lily growing, prioritize varieties known for their compact size and sturdy stems to minimize staking and ensure stability in the pot.

What is the ideal pot size for growing lilies in containers?

Choosing the ideal pot size for growing lilies in containers is crucial for their health and stability, directly impacting their ability to produce vigorous growth and abundant blooms. Lilies are bulb plants that grow tall and need adequate root space, so opting for a sufficiently deep and wide pot is essential.

Here are the guidelines for ideal pot size:

1. Depth is Key:

   • Lilies send down deep roots from the bulb and also produce stem roots along the buried portion of the stem (above the bulb). These stem roots are very important for the plant's stability and nutrient uptake.
   • Minimum Depth: For most lily bulbs, choose a pot that is at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep.
   • Recommended Depth: Ideally, opt for pots that are 10-14 inches (25-35 cm) deep. This depth allows for proper planting depth (which protects the bulb and encourages stem roots) and provides ample room for a healthy root system to develop.

2. Width (Diameter):

   • The width of the pot depends on how many bulbs you plan to plant. Lilies actually perform well when their bulbs are relatively close together, as this helps them support each other.
   • Single Bulb: For a single large lily bulb, an 8-inch (20 cm) diameter pot is usually sufficient.
   • Multiple Bulbs:
     • For a 10-12 inch (25-30 cm) diameter pot, you can plant 3-5 lily bulbs.
     • For a 14-16 inch (35-40 cm) diameter pot, you can plant 5-7 lily bulbs.
   • Spacing: Aim to plant bulbs about 2-3 inches apart from each other and the sides of the pot.

3. Material:

   • Heavier Materials are Better: Because lilies grow tall, they can become top-heavy. Pots made from heavier materials like terracotta, ceramic, or concrete provide more stability and are less likely to tip over in wind compared to lightweight plastic pots.
   • Drainage: Regardless of material, ensure the pot has ample drainage holes at the bottom.

Summary Table for Pot Size and Bulbs:

Choosing the right pot size ensures your lilies have the space and stability they need to produce their spectacular blooms, enhancing their beauty and performance in your container garden. You can find a wide variety of large outdoor planters that would work well.

What type of soil is best for container-grown lilies?

The best type of soil for container-grown lilies is a loose, well-draining, and nutrient-rich potting mix that ensures their sensitive bulbs and roots don't sit in soggy conditions. Unlike in-ground lilies that benefit from garden soil, container lilies rely entirely on the potting mix you provide.

Here are the key characteristics and components of an ideal potting mix for container-grown lilies:

1. Excellent Drainage (Most Important):

   • Why: Lily bulbs are extremely susceptible to rot if they are left in waterlogged soil. Good drainage is non-negotiable.
   • How: The potting mix must allow excess water to flow out quickly from the drainage holes.
   • Ingredients for Drainage: Look for mixes that prominently feature ingredients like perlite, coarse sand, or small bark fines.

2. Aeration:

   • Why: Just like good drainage, plenty of air pockets in the soil are crucial for roots to "breathe" and prevent suffocation.
   • How: Light, fluffy mixes with ingredients like perlite or coco coir provide good aeration.

3. Moisture Retention (Balanced):

   • Why: While draining well, the mix also needs to hold enough moisture to keep the plant hydrated between waterings.
   • How: Components like peat moss (or its sustainable alternative, coco coir) are excellent for retaining moisture.

4. Nutrient Richness:

   • Why: As lilies are heavy feeders during their active growth and blooming phase, they benefit from a mix that provides initial nutrients.
   • How: Look for potting mixes that contain compost, worm castings, or a small amount of slow-release fertilizer.

5. Sterility:

   • Why: Bagged potting mixes are usually sterile, meaning they are free from weed seeds, pests, and disease pathogens that can harm bulbs.

Recommended Potting Mix Compositions (What to Look For or DIY):

• Commercial Mix: A high-quality, well-draining potting mix specifically for bulbs or general-purpose container plants. Avoid heavy mixes labeled for trees and shrubs, or cheap, dense general-purpose mixes.
• DIY Blend (Example): If you prefer to mix your own, a good recipe could be:
  • 50% High-Quality Peat Moss or Coco Coir: Provides moisture retention and a lightweight base.
  • 30% Perlite: Essential for superior drainage and aeration.
  • 20% High-Quality Finished Compost or Worm Castings: Adds nutrients and improves overall soil health.
  • Optionally, a small amount of coarse sand can be added for extra weight and drainage, especially for very tall lilies.

Always ensure your chosen pot has ample drainage holes at the bottom, as even the best soil mix won't compensate for poor drainage from the container itself. By providing the best soil type for container-grown lilies, you're setting them up for robust growth and stunning blooms.

What are the best watering practices for container-grown lilies?

The best watering practices for container-grown lilies are crucial for preventing bulb rot and ensuring consistent, healthy growth and abundant blooms. Lilies in pots have different moisture needs than those in the ground, drying out faster but also being more susceptible to overwatering.

Here are the key watering practices for container-grown lilies:

1. Water Based on Soil Moisture, Not a Schedule:

   • The Finger Test: This is the most reliable method. Stick your finger about 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep into the potting mix. If it feels dry at that depth, it's time to water. If it still feels moist, wait.
   • Weight Test: Lift the pot when it's dry; then lift it again after watering. Over time, you'll learn to judge the pot's moisture content by its weight.
   • Moisture Meter: A soil moisture meter can provide accurate readings deeper in the pot, especially useful for larger containers.

2. Water Deeply and Thoroughly:

   • When you do water, water slowly and evenly until you see water flowing freely out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This ensures that the entire root ball and bulb are adequately hydrated.
   • Discard Saucer Water: Always empty any excess water that collects in the saucer within 15-30 minutes. Allowing the pot to sit in standing water is a primary cause of lily bulb rot.

3. Frequency Varies:

   • Environmental Factors: Watering frequency will depend heavily on:
     • Temperature: Warmer temperatures mean more frequent watering.
     • Humidity: Lower humidity means more frequent watering.
     • Pot Size & Material: Smaller pots and terracotta pots dry out faster than larger pots or plastic ones.
     • Growth Stage: Lilies need more water during their active growth (spring) and flowering periods (summer) than during dormancy.
   • Avoid Overwatering: It's better to underwater slightly than to overwater. Lily bulbs can recover from a bit of dryness, but rot is often fatal.

4. Water at the Base:

   • Apply water directly to the soil surface around the base of the lily plant. Avoid overhead watering that wets the foliage and flowers, as this can encourage fungal diseases, especially in humid conditions.

5. Reduce Watering After Flowering:

   • Once the lilies have finished blooming in late summer, gradually reduce watering frequency. The plant is beginning to draw energy back into the bulb and prepare for dormancy. The soil should be kept drier during this time.

6. Winter Dormancy Watering:

   • During winter dormancy (when foliage has died back and pots are in a cool, dark place), water only very sparingly, just enough to prevent the potting mix from becoming completely bone dry. This might be once a month or even less, depending on temperature.

By adhering to these mindful watering practices, you'll provide your container-grown lilies with the perfect moisture balance, fostering healthy bulbs, strong growth, and magnificent blooms season after season.

How do I fertilize container-grown lilies?

Fertilizing container-grown lilies is an important aspect of their care because, unlike in-ground plants, they have a limited supply of nutrients within their pot. Since lilies are heavy feeders, especially during their active growth and blooming phases, providing supplemental nutrients helps ensure robust growth and abundant flowers.

Here's how to effectively fertilize container-grown lilies:

1. Start with a Nutrient-Rich Potting Mix:

   • The best foundation is a high-quality potting mix for bulbs or a general-purpose mix that includes some compost or a slow-release starter fertilizer. This provides initial nutrients for the emerging shoots.

2. Begin Fertilizing After Shoots Emerge:

   • Do not fertilize immediately after planting the bulb. The bulb itself contains enough stored energy for the initial shoot growth.
   • Begin fertilizing when the lily shoots are about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) tall and actively growing.

3. Choose the Right Fertilizer Type:

   • Balanced Liquid Fertilizer: A balanced (e.g., 10-10-10, 5-10-5) or slightly bloom-boosting (e.g., 5-10-5, higher P and K) liquid houseplant fertilizer is often best for containers. Liquid fertilizers provide nutrients readily and allow for easy control of dosage.
   • Slow-Release Granular: You can also mix in a slow-release granular fertilizer into the potting mix at planting time. This provides continuous feeding over several months.
   • Avoid High Nitrogen: While lilies need a balanced feed, avoid fertilizers with a very high first number (Nitrogen), as excessive nitrogen can lead to lush foliage but fewer, weaker flowers.

4. Dilution and Frequency (Crucial for Liquid Fertilizers):

   • Dilute: Always dilute liquid fertilizers to half strength (or even quarter strength for very young plants) of what the product label recommends for mature plants. Lily roots can be sensitive to fertilizer burn.
   • Frequency: Fertilize every 2-4 weeks during the active growing season (spring through summer, up until flowering begins or shortly after).

5. Application Method:

   • Water First: Always water the lily thoroughly with plain water before applying liquid fertilizer. Applying fertilizer to dry soil can burn the roots.
   • Evenly Distributed: Pour the diluted fertilizer solution evenly over the soil surface, allowing it to soak in.

6. Reduce/Stop Fertilizing After Blooming:

   • Once the lily has finished blooming in late summer, reduce or stop fertilizing. The plant is shifting its energy towards preparing the bulb for dormancy. Continue basic watering only.

7. Monitor Your Plant:

   • Observe your lily for signs of nutrient deficiency (yellowing leaves, stunted growth) or over-fertilization (burnt leaf tips, excessive lush foliage but no blooms). Adjust your feeding schedule accordingly.

By following these fertilization guidelines, you'll provide your container-grown lilies with the consistent nourishment they need to produce their spectacular, long-lasting blooms.

How do I ensure container-grown lilies successfully overwinter?

Ensuring container-grown lilies successfully overwinter is a critical step for their long-term health and reblooming in subsequent years. Unlike in-ground lilies, which have the insulating protection of the earth, potted lilies are highly vulnerable to freezing temperatures. Proper overwintering protects the bulbs from extreme cold and ensures they receive the necessary chilling period.

Here's how to overwinter container-grown lilies effectively:

1. Allow Foliage to Die Back Naturally:

   • Crucial Step: As outdoor temperatures drop in late fall, allow the lily plant's green stems and leaves to naturally yellow, brown, and wither away. The plant is drawing essential nutrients from the leaves back into the bulb for winter storage.
   • Do NOT Cut Green Stems: Resist the urge to cut healthy green stems, as this deprives the bulb of valuable energy it needs to survive dormancy and re-emerge in spring.

2. Cut Back Dead Foliage:

   • Once the foliage has completely died back and turned dry/crispy (usually after a hard frost), cut the stems down to about 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) above the soil line. This helps prevent diseases and makes the pot tidier for storage.

3. Choose a Cool, Dark, and Frost-Free Location for Dormancy:

   • Ideal Conditions: The goal is to simulate their natural underground dormancy: cool, dark, and consistently above freezing.
   • Temperature Range: An ideal storage temperature for dormant lily bulbs in pots is 35-45°F (2-7°C). Avoid temperatures below freezing or too warm.
   • Suitable Spots:
     • Unheated Garage: Often ideal, as long as it stays consistently cool but above freezing.
     • Cool Basement: Another excellent option, especially if it's dark.
     • Shed: If insulated and protected from hard freezes.
     • Unheated Porch: Only if temperatures reliably stay above freezing.
   • Avoid: Heated living spaces. The warmth will confuse the bulb and prevent proper dormancy, leading to weak or no blooms.

4. Water Sparingly During Dormancy:

   • Prevent Desiccation AND Rot: This is a delicate balance. The soil should be kept just slightly damp, not soggy, to prevent the bulb from completely drying out and shriveling.
   • Frequency: Check the soil moisture only every few weeks. Water very sparingly, just enough to moisten the top few inches of soil (e.g., a small splash), perhaps once a month or every 6 weeks. Overwatering during dormancy will lead to lethal bulb rot. A soil moisture meter can be very helpful for this.

5. Pest Check Before Storage:

   • Before bringing pots indoors for storage, inspect them for any signs of pests (snails, slugs, or insects) to avoid introducing them into your storage area or other houseplants.

6. Prepare for Spring Re-emergence:

   • In early spring, as outdoor temperatures naturally begin to warm (or around the last frost date for your zone), you can bring the potted lilies back outdoors.
   • As soon as new shoots begin to emerge, increase watering frequency gradually and move them to a brighter location to begin their active growing cycle for the new season.

By carefully following these overwintering steps, you can protect your container-grown lily bulbs, ensuring they survive the cold and return to produce magnificent blooms year after year.