Can I grow pothos alongside winter? - Plant Care Guide

No, you cannot grow Pothos outdoors alongside winter in most climates, as Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a tropical plant highly sensitive to cold temperatures and frost. It thrives in warm, humid environments and will suffer severe damage or die when exposed to temperatures consistently below 50°F (10°C), let alone freezing conditions. For most regions experiencing true winter, Pothos must be brought indoors to survive.

What are the ideal temperature and climate conditions for Pothos?

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a highly adaptable houseplant, but its ideal temperature and climate conditions reflect its native tropical habitat. Understanding these preferences is key to ensuring a healthy and thriving plant, particularly when considering its vulnerability to winter.

• Temperature Range: Pothos thrives in temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C and 29°C). This is generally the range found in most indoor living environments, which is why it's such a popular houseplant.
  • Minimum Temperature: It can tolerate brief dips to 55°F (13°C) but will start to show stress if temperatures consistently fall below 50°F (10°C).
  • Frost Intolerance: Pothos is extremely susceptible to frost. Even a light frost can cause significant damage to its leaves and stems, turning them black and mushy. Freezing temperatures will kill the plant entirely.
• Humidity: Being a tropical plant, Pothos appreciates moderate to high humidity, ideally between 50% and 70%. While it can tolerate lower humidity levels common in homes, higher humidity promotes lusher growth and larger leaves.
  • Low Humidity Issues: In very dry environments (especially during winter with indoor heating), leaf edges may turn crispy or brown, and the plant might show signs of stress.
  • Boosting Humidity: You can increase humidity by misting the leaves, placing the pot on a pebble tray with water, or using a room humidifier.
• Light: Pothos prefers bright, indirect light. It can tolerate low light conditions, which is another reason for its popularity as a houseplant, but too little light will result in slower growth and smaller, less vibrant leaves, especially in variegated varieties. Direct, harsh sunlight can scorch its leaves.
• Soil: Well-draining potting mix is crucial. Pothos dislikes soggy roots, which can lead to root rot. A standard indoor potting mix works well.
• Watering: Allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering is a common killer of Pothos.

In summary, Pothos thrives in consistently warm temperatures and moderate to high humidity. Any exposure to cold, especially freezing temperatures, is detrimental, making it impossible to grow outdoors during winter in most temperate climates.

What happens to Pothos when exposed to cold or freezing temperatures?

When Pothos is exposed to cold or freezing temperatures, its delicate tropical cells rapidly break down, leading to visible and often irreversible damage. This plant is simply not equipped to handle the chilling stress that occurs below its preferred temperature range, let alone the destructive power of frost.

Here's a breakdown of what happens:

1. Chilling Injury (Temperatures below 50°F / 10°C but above freezing):

   • Reduced Metabolism: Even without freezing, consistently low temperatures slow down the plant's metabolic processes. It becomes less efficient at photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, and overall growth.
   • Wilting and Drooping: Leaves may start to wilt or droop, even if the soil is adequately moist, as the roots become less effective at absorbing water in cold conditions.
   • Yellowing: Leaves can begin to yellow, often starting at the edges or between veins, as chlorophyll production is impacted.
   • Stunted Growth: New growth will either cease entirely or be severely stunted and weak.
   • Brown or Black Spots: Irregular brown or black spots may appear on leaves, particularly where they are thinnest or most exposed. This indicates localized tissue death.
   • Increased Susceptibility to Disease: Cold stress weakens the plant, making it more vulnerable to fungal or bacterial infections.

2. Freezing Injury (Temperatures at or below 32°F / 0°C):

   • Ice Crystal Formation: When temperatures drop below freezing, the water within the plant's cells freezes and forms sharp ice crystals. These crystals pierce and rupture the cell walls.
   • Cellular Collapse: Once cell walls are ruptured, the internal structure of the plant tissue collapses.
   • Blackening and Mushing: Leaves and stems will rapidly turn black, dark brown, or become translucent and mushy. This is often the most dramatic and easily identifiable sign of frost damage.
   • Irreversible Damage: For Pothos, freezing injury is usually irreversible. Even if the plant appears to recover initially, the damaged tissues will eventually die off, and the plant often cannot survive the shock. The roots, if exposed to freezing soil, will also be destroyed, leading to complete plant death.

In most cases, if Pothos leaves turn black and soft after cold exposure, the plant is severely compromised. While you might try to prune away the damaged parts and hope for new growth from the base in spring, it's a slim chance unless the roots were completely protected from the cold. The best approach is always prevention: bring your Pothos indoors well before outdoor temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C).

Can Pothos be grown outdoors in warmer climates during winter?

Yes, in USDA Hardiness Zones 10b and warmer, Pothos can be grown outdoors year-round, even during what these regions consider "winter." These zones typically experience mild winters with temperatures rarely, if ever, dropping below 40-50°F (4.4-10°C) and no frost.

• Zone 10b: Minimum average temperature of 35-40°F (1.7-4.4°C).
• Zone 11: Minimum average temperature of 40-50°F (4.4-10°C).
• Zone 12 & 13: Even warmer, tropical climates.

In these specific regions, Pothos thrives outdoors. You'll often see it used as a ground cover, climbing up trees, or cascading from hanging baskets in gardens and landscapes. The consistently warm temperatures and often high humidity mimic its native jungle environment.

Examples of areas where Pothos can grow outdoors year-round:

• Parts of South Florida
• Coastal Southern California (in very protected areas)
• Hawaii
• Puerto Rico
• Tropical regions worldwide

Even in these warmer zones, growers might take minor precautions during unusual cold snaps, such as:

• Temporary Covering: Covering plants with a frost cloth if temperatures are predicted to dip unexpectedly low.
• Container Mobility: For Pothos in containers, simply moving them to a more sheltered spot closer to a house wall or under an overhang.

However, for the vast majority of gardeners in temperate climates that experience true cold winters with freezing temperatures and frost, growing Pothos outdoors year-round is simply not feasible. They must be treated as indoor plants and brought inside before the cold weather sets in.

What is the process for bringing Pothos indoors for winter?

Bringing your Pothos indoors for winter is a crucial step for its survival if you live in a climate that experiences cold temperatures or frost. This transition needs to be done carefully to minimize stress to the plant and prevent introducing pests into your home.

Here's a step-by-step process for successfully bringing Pothos indoors:

1. Timing is Key:

   • Monitor Temperatures: Start preparing to bring your Pothos indoors when nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 50-55°F (10-13°C). Do not wait for the first frost warning; by then, it might be too late for sensitive plants like Pothos. Aim to bring them in several weeks before temperatures become consistently cold.

2. Pest Inspection and Treatment (Crucial Step):

   • Thorough Inspection: Before bringing any outdoor plant inside, meticulously inspect it for pests. Check the tops and undersides of leaves, stems, and the soil surface. Look for aphids, spider mites (tiny webs), whiteflies, mealybugs (fuzzy white spots), and even ants or snails.
   • Quarantine: It's highly recommended to quarantine new indoor plants or any plants brought in from outdoors for a few weeks, ideally in a separate room or isolated spot, to catch any hidden pests before they spread to your other houseplants.
   • Pest Treatment Options:
     • Strong Water Spray: A forceful spray of water from a hose can dislodge many pests. Repeat several times.
     • Insecticidal Soap: Spray affected areas thoroughly with a store-bought insecticidal soap solution, ensuring good coverage, especially on leaf undersides. Repeat as directed.
     • Neem Oil: A diluted neem oil spray can act as an insect deterrent and smother pests.
     • Wipe Leaves: For visible pests like mealybugs, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
     • Repotting (Optional): If you suspect pests in the soil, consider repotting with fresh potting mix. Remove as much old soil as possible without damaging roots.

3. Prepare the Plant:

   • Prune: Trim back any excessively long or unruly vines, as well as any damaged or yellowing leaves. This reduces the plant's size and makes it easier to manage indoors.
   • Clean Leaves: Wipe down the leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust and dirt, allowing the plant to photosynthesize more efficiently.

4. Gradual Acclimation (Optional but Recommended):

   • If possible, gradually acclimate your Pothos to indoor conditions. Instead of a sudden move from bright outdoor light to dim indoor light, place it in a shadier spot outdoors for a week or so before bringing it inside. This helps reduce transplant shock.

5. Choose the Right Indoor Spot:

   • Light: Place your Pothos in a location with bright, indirect light, similar to its outdoor conditions. A spot near a window (north or east-facing is ideal, or a south/west window with sheer curtains) is usually best.
   • Temperature: Ensure the spot is away from cold drafts (e.g., leaky windows, frequently opened doors) and hot, dry air (e.g., heating vents, radiators), as these can stress the plant.
   • Humidity: Consider boosting humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier if your indoor air is very dry, especially during winter heating.

By following these steps, you can successfully transition your Pothos indoors, protecting it from the harshness of winter and ensuring it continues to thrive as a beautiful houseplant.

What care adjustments are needed for Pothos during its indoor winter dormancy?

During winter, Pothos, like many houseplants, experiences a period of reduced growth or semi-dormancy due to lower light levels and often drier indoor air. To keep it healthy through these months, you need to make specific care adjustments. Overwatering or over-fertilizing during this period are common mistakes.

Here are the key care adjustments for Pothos during its indoor winter dormancy:

1. Watering Less Frequently:

   • Reduced Needs: The most important adjustment is to reduce watering frequency. With less light and cooler temperatures, the plant uses water much more slowly.
   • Check Soil Moisture: Always let the top 2-3 inches of soil dry out completely before watering again. Using a soil moisture meter can provide accurate readings throughout the pot.
   • Avoid Overwatering: Overwatering during winter is the leading cause of root rot, as the soil stays soggy for too long. If you typically water once a week in summer, you might only need to water every 2-3 weeks in winter.

2. No Fertilization:

   • Dormancy: Pothos is not actively growing during winter. Fertilizing a dormant plant can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil, causing fertilizer burn and root damage, as the plant isn't using the nutrients.
   • Resume in Spring: Stop fertilizing in late fall and don't resume until early spring when you notice new growth emerging.

3. Light Considerations:

   • Maximize Available Light: Winter days are shorter and light intensity is lower. Place your Pothos in the brightest indirect light possible, such as near a south or west-facing window (but still avoid direct, scorching sun on the leaves themselves).
   • Supplemental Lighting (Optional): If your home is particularly dark, consider providing a few hours of LED grow light exposure daily to help prevent excessive legginess or leaf drop.

4. Humidity Management:

   • Combat Dry Air: Indoor heating systems can drastically lower humidity levels, which Pothos dislikes.
   • Increase Humidity:
     • Place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot doesn't sit directly in the water).
     • Group plants together to create a localized humid microclimate.
     • Use a room humidifier in the vicinity of your plants.
     • Light misting can offer temporary relief but isn't a long-term solution for dry air.

5. Temperature Stability:

   • Avoid Drafts: Keep your Pothos away from cold drafts from windows or doors, as well as hot, dry air from heating vents or radiators. Sudden temperature fluctuations can stress the plant. Aim for consistent room temperatures.

6. Pest Monitoring:

   • Increased Vulnerability: Dry indoor air can make Pothos more susceptible to pests like spider mites.
   • Regular Inspection: Continue to inspect your plant regularly for any signs of pests. Treat immediately if detected using appropriate methods like insecticidal soap or neem oil.

By making these care adjustments, you'll help your Pothos navigate the challenging winter months indoors, keeping it healthy and ready to burst with new growth once spring arrives.

When is it safe to move Pothos back outdoors in spring?

Moving your Pothos back outdoors in spring is an exciting sign of warmer weather, but timing and a gradual approach are crucial to prevent shock and damage. Rushing the process can set your plant back significantly.

Here are the key factors and steps for safely moving Pothos back outdoors:

1. Monitor Outdoor Temperatures (Crucial):

   • Nighttime Temperatures: Wait until all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50-55°F (10-13°C). Even a brief dip below this threshold can stress or damage the plant.
   • Daytime Temperatures: Ensure daytime temperatures are reliably in the 65-85°F (18-29°C) range.

2. Harden Off Gradually (Acclimatization):

   • This is the most critical step. Your Pothos has been accustomed to the stable, lower light conditions indoors. A sudden move to brighter, more variable outdoor light and wind will cause sunburn and shock.
   • Week 1 (Shade): Place your Pothos in a fully shaded, protected spot outdoors for a few hours each day. This could be under a dense tree, on a shaded porch, or under a patio umbrella. Bring it inside at night.
   • Week 2 (Partial Shade): Gradually increase the exposure to brighter, but still indirect, light. Move it to a spot that receives morning sun or dappled light for increasing periods. Continue bringing it in at night.
   • Week 3+ (Desired Location): Slowly transition it to its final outdoor spot, which should ideally be a location with bright, indirect light or morning sun. Protect it from intense midday or afternoon direct sun, which can scorch its leaves.
   • Wind Protection: During the hardening-off process, also ensure the spot is protected from strong winds, which can tear leaves or quickly dry out the plant.

3. Check for Pests (Again):

   • Before placing it in its final outdoor spot, quickly re-inspect for any pests that might have been hiding or appeared since coming indoors.

4. Watering and Feeding Adjustments:

   • Increased Watering: As temperatures rise and light levels increase outdoors, your Pothos will start actively growing again and will need more frequent watering. Check the soil daily.
   • Resume Fertilizing: Once you see signs of active new growth and the plant has settled into its outdoor spot, you can resume your regular feeding schedule with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer.

5. Choose the Right Outdoor Spot:

   • Bright, Indirect Light: Mimic its indoor conditions. A spot under a porch, a shaded patio, or beneath a tree canopy is often ideal. While some varieties can tolerate more sun, bright, indirect light is generally safest to prevent leaf scorch.
   • Good Drainage: Ensure the pot has excellent drainage, especially with increased outdoor watering.

By following this careful acclimation process, you'll ensure your Pothos successfully transitions back outdoors, where it can enjoy the fresh air and warmth of spring and summer without suffering from shock or damage.