Can You Get Dwarf Olive Trees? - Plant Care Guide

Yes, you can absolutely get dwarf olive trees! While traditional olive trees (Olea europaea) can grow quite large, several cultivated varieties and pruning techniques allow for growing dwarf olive trees that are perfectly suited for smaller gardens, containers, or even indoors. These compact versions offer the same beautiful silvery-green foliage and, often, a good harvest of olives.

What Defines a "Dwarf" Olive Tree?

When we talk about a "dwarf olive tree," it's important to understand what "dwarf" means in this context. Unlike some plant species where dwarf varieties are entirely different botanical entities, dwarf olive trees typically refer to standard olive cultivars that naturally grow smaller, or that are maintained at a smaller size through specific horticultural practices.

Here's what defines a dwarf olive tree:

1. Naturally Smaller Cultivars: Some olive varieties inherently have a more compact growth habit. They are bred or selected to reach a mature size that is significantly smaller than the standard 20-30+ feet (6-9+ meters) of a traditional olive tree. These varieties might top out at 6-10 feet (1.8-3 meters) tall, making them ideal for small spaces.
2. Container Growth: Growing any olive tree in a container naturally restricts its size. The limited root space prevents the tree from reaching its full genetic potential, effectively creating a dwarf version. This is the most common way to grow olives as smaller, manageable plants, especially in climates where they need to be brought indoors for winter.
3. Pruning: Regular and strategic pruning is another key method to maintain an olive tree at a "dwarf" size. Even standard varieties can be kept compact through consistent pruning, shaping them into attractive, smaller forms. This is often practiced for bonsai olive trees or for specimen plants in small gardens.
4. Slow Growth Rate: Many olive varieties, especially those suitable for dwarfing, naturally have a slower growth rate compared to many other fruit trees. This inherent characteristic makes them easier to manage at a smaller size.

So, a "dwarf olive tree" might be a specific named cultivar, a standard olive tree grown in a pot, or a tree maintained small through consistent pruning. All these options make the beauty and fruit of the olive accessible to more gardeners, regardless of space limitations.

What Are Popular Dwarf Olive Tree Varieties?

While many olive varieties can be kept smaller through pruning and containerization, some cultivars are naturally more compact, making them ideal choices if you're specifically looking for a dwarf olive tree. These varieties are often chosen for their ornamental value, fruit production, and suitability for smaller spaces.

Here are some popular dwarf olive tree varieties:

1. 'Arbequina':

   • Size: One of the most popular dwarf varieties, typically growing 6-10 feet (1.8-3 meters) tall and wide in containers.
   • Fruiting: Very prolific producer of small, flavorful olives (ideal for olive oil) and is self-fertile, meaning you only need one tree to get fruit.
   • Appearance: Graceful, somewhat weeping habit with dense, silvery-green foliage.
   • Hardiness: More cold-hardy than many other olives, tolerating temperatures down to about -7°C (20°F).
   • Overall: Excellent choice for containers, small gardens, and indoor growing due to its compact size, heavy fruiting, and relatively good cold tolerance. You can easily find Arbequina olive trees for sale.

2. 'Little Ollie'™ (Olea europaea 'Montra'):

   • Size: A true dwarf, non-fruiting (or produces very few, small, non-viable olives) cultivar, usually reaching only 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) tall and wide.
   • Fruiting: Primarily grown as an ornamental, it does not produce edible olives.
   • Appearance: Compact, dense, bushy growth with smaller leaves than other olives.
   • Hardiness: Similar hardiness to other common olives.
   • Overall: Perfect for purely ornamental purposes where fruit is not desired, ideal for formal hedges, small patios, or accent plants.

3. 'Picual':

   • Size: While it can grow large in the ground, 'Picual' is often maintained at a manageable "dwarf" size in containers (around 8-12 feet / 2.4-3.6 meters) through pruning.
   • Fruiting: Very high yield of large, high-quality oil olives. Also largely self-fertile.
   • Appearance: Upright, dense growth habit.
   • Hardiness: Moderately cold-hardy.
   • Overall: A good choice for container growing if you want significant fruit production and are willing to prune regularly.

4. 'Manzanillo':

   • Size: Similar to 'Picual', a larger tree in the ground but can be kept to 8-12 feet (2.4-3.6 meters) in containers with pruning.
   • Fruiting: Produces excellent table olives. Needs a pollinator for best fruit set.
   • Appearance: More open, spreading growth.
   • Hardiness: Moderately cold-hardy.
   • Overall: If you want to grow table olives in a container, this is a strong candidate, but requires consistent pruning.

When selecting a dwarf olive tree, consider your primary goal: do you want fruit, or is it purely for ornamental appeal? This will guide your choice of variety.

Can You Grow Dwarf Olive Trees Indoors?

Yes, you can absolutely grow dwarf olive trees indoors, and it's a popular option for bringing a touch of Mediterranean charm to homes, especially in colder climates. While providing ideal conditions indoors can be a challenge, many gardeners successfully cultivate them as attractive, long-lived houseplants.

Here's how to grow dwarf olive trees indoors:

1. Light Requirements (Critical!):

   • Brightest Spot Possible: This is the most important factor. Olive trees need as much direct sunlight as they can get indoors. A south-facing window that receives 6-8 hours of direct sun daily is ideal.
   • Supplement with Grow Lights: In areas with less intense winter sun (like many northern regions), or if your home lacks sufficient natural light, a full-spectrum LED grow light for 10-14 hours a day is often essential for the tree's health and potential fruiting.

2. Temperature and Humidity:

   • Cooler Winter Dormancy: Olives benefit from a cooler resting period in winter (around 7-15°C / 45-60°F) to trigger flower bud formation and reduce pest issues. An unheated sunroom or a cool, bright basement is ideal.
   • Warmer Summers: During spring and summer, typical room temperatures (20-27°C / 68-80°F) are fine.
   • Humidity: While olives tolerate dry conditions outdoors, indoor heating can make the air extremely dry. Mist the leaves occasionally or use a pebble tray to increase localized humidity.

3. Watering:

   • Deep and Infrequent: Water thoroughly when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry, allowing excess water to drain completely. Do not let the pot sit in standing water, as this leads to root rot.
   • Reduce in Winter: Significantly reduce watering during the cooler winter dormancy period, allowing the soil to dry out more between waterings.
   • Monitor Moisture: A soil moisture meter can be invaluable for precise watering.

4. Soil and Potting:

   • Well-Draining Potting Mix: Use a high-quality, fast-draining potting mix specifically formulated for citrus or Mediterranean plants, or create your own mix with added perlite or grit for extra drainage.
   • Drainage Holes: Ensure your pot has ample drainage holes.
   • Pot Size: Start with a pot proportional to the tree's size and gradually repot into larger containers as the tree grows, typically every 2-3 years. Don't overpot.

5. Fertilization:

   • Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer designed for trees or a liquid fertilizer (diluted to half strength) every 2-4 weeks during the active growing season (spring and summer).
   • Stop fertilizing during fall and winter.

6. Pruning:

   • Regular pruning is key to maintaining a compact size and attractive shape. Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth begins, or after flowering if you want fruit.

7. Outdoor Summer Vacation:

   • Beneficial: If possible, move your dwarf olive tree outdoors to a sunny, protected spot once all danger of frost has passed in spring. This provides it with optimal light, fresh air, and helps with pollination.
   • Acclimation: Gradually acclimate it to direct outdoor sun over a week or two to prevent leaf scorch.
   • Bring Indoors: Move it back indoors before night temperatures consistently drop below 7°C (45°F) in the fall.

Growing dwarf olive trees indoors is a rewarding endeavor that brings the beauty of the Mediterranean right into your home, and with optimal conditions, you might even enjoy a small harvest of your own homegrown olives!

How to Care for a Dwarf Olive Tree in a Container

Caring for a dwarf olive tree in a container is the most common way to cultivate them, especially for ornamental purposes or in climates unsuitable for year-round outdoor growth. Container culture requires specific attention to watering, feeding, and root management.

Here's how to care for a dwarf olive tree in a container:

1. Pot Selection:

   • Size: Choose a pot that is proportional to the tree's current size. Don't go too large too quickly, as this can lead to waterlogging. A good rule of thumb is to increase pot size by only 1-2 inches in diameter when repotting.
   • Material: Terracotta pots are excellent as their porosity allows for better airflow to the roots and helps prevent overwatering. However, they dry out faster. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots also work but require more careful watering.
   • Drainage: Crucially, the pot must have drainage holes to prevent root rot.

2. Potting Mix:

   • Use a well-draining, airy potting mix. A cactus/citrus blend or a standard potting mix amended with extra perlite, coarse sand, or small bark chips (to 30-50% drainage material) is ideal. Avoid heavy, moisture-retentive mixes.

3. Watering Strategy:

   • Deep and Infrequent: Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom. Then, allow the top 2-3 inches of soil to dry out completely before watering again.
   • Seasonality: Water more frequently during warm, sunny weather and active growth (spring/summer). Reduce watering significantly during cooler, dormant periods (fall/winter).
   • Monitoring: Use a soil moisture meter or lift the pot to feel its weight (lighter when dry). Olives are very sensitive to overwatering.

4. Fertilization:

   • Regular Feeding: Containerized olives rely entirely on you for nutrients. Feed them regularly during the growing season (spring through late summer).
   • Type: Use a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer or a liquid feed (e.g., 5-5-5 or 10-10-10 NPK) diluted to half strength every 2-4 weeks.
   • Stop in Winter: Do not fertilize during the dormant period.

5. Light and Location:

   • Full Sun: Position your container olive in the sunniest spot available, whether indoors or out.
   • Rotation: Rotate the pot occasionally to ensure even sun exposure and symmetrical growth.
   • Winter Protection: If growing in a cold climate, prepare to move the container indoors before temperatures drop below freezing (or below your chosen cultivar's tolerance).

6. Pruning for Shape and Size:

   • Annual Pruning: Prune annually to maintain desired size, shape, and encourage branching. The best time is typically in late winter or early spring before new growth, or after fruiting if fruit is desired.
   • Remove Suckers: Prune any suckers (shoots growing from the base or below the graft union).
   • Thinning: Thin out dense growth to improve air circulation. A good pair of hand pruners is essential.

7. Repotting:

   • Repot every 2-3 years (or when roots start circling the pot) into a pot only slightly larger than the previous one. If you want to keep the tree the same size, root prune up to 1/3 of the outer root ball and repot into the same container with fresh potting mix.

By diligently following these container care guidelines, your dwarf olive tree will remain a healthy, beautiful, and potentially productive addition to your patio or indoor space for many years.

Can Dwarf Olive Trees Produce Edible Olives?

Yes, many dwarf olive tree varieties can absolutely produce edible olives, even when grown in containers or as smaller plants. The key factors for dwarf olive trees to bear fruit are selecting the right cultivar, ensuring adequate sunlight, and providing proper care.

Here's what you need to know about dwarf olive trees and fruit production:

1. Cultivar Choice:

   • Fruiting Varieties: Choose a variety known for its fruiting capabilities, such as 'Arbequina', 'Picual', or 'Manzanillo'. These are popular choices for both oil and table olives.
   • Ornamental Varieties: Be aware that some "dwarf" varieties, like 'Little Ollie'™, are specifically bred to be non-fruiting or produce very few, non-viable olives, focusing solely on ornamental appeal.
   • Grafted Trees: For reliable and faster fruiting, always start with a grafted olive tree rather than one grown from seed, as seed-grown trees can take many years to fruit (if ever) and may not be true to the parent type.

2. Maturity:

   • Even dwarf varieties need to reach a certain level of maturity before they start producing fruit. Grafted trees typically begin to fruit in 3-5 years.

3. Pollination:

   • Self-Fertile Varieties: Some dwarf olive varieties, like 'Arbequina' and 'Picual', are self-fertile, meaning a single tree can produce olives on its own. However, even self-fertile varieties often yield more fruit with cross-pollination from another olive tree.
   • Cross-Pollination Needed: Other varieties require a second, different olive tree for successful pollination and fruit set.
   • Indoor Pollination: If growing indoors, you may need to hand-pollinate the flowers using a small, soft brush to transfer pollen from one flower to another, or between two different trees if applicable. This is typically done when the trees are flowering (usually in spring).

4. Sunlight is Paramount:

   • To flower and set fruit, dwarf olive trees need abundant sunlight – at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily. Lack of sufficient light is the primary reason indoor olives fail to fruit. Supplement with grow lights if needed.

5. Cooler Winter Dormancy:

   • A period of cooler temperatures (ideally between 7-15°C / 45-60°F) during winter is often necessary to trigger the flower bud development that leads to fruiting. If kept too warm year-round, they may not flower.

6. Proper Care:

   • Adequate watering, appropriate fertilization, and healthy overall plant care contribute to the tree's vigor and ability to produce fruit. Stressed trees are less likely to flower or hold onto fruit.

If your goal is to harvest your own olives, choosing a known fruiting dwarf olive variety, providing ample sun, ensuring proper winter chill (if possible), and addressing pollination needs will significantly increase your chances of success, even with a smaller, container-grown tree.

Pests and Diseases of Dwarf Olive Trees

Dwarf olive trees, whether grown indoors or out, are generally hardy, but they can be susceptible to a few common pests and diseases. Regular inspection and prompt action are key to keeping them healthy.

Common Pests of Dwarf Olive Trees:

1. Olive Fruit Fly (Bactrocera oleae):
   • Problem: The most serious pest for olive fruit production. Larvae tunnel into developing olives, causing them to spoil.
   • Signs: Small puncture marks on olives, soft or mushy fruit, larvae inside fruit.
   • Solution: Monitoring with sticky traps, biological controls (parasitic wasps), or specific organic sprays. Often not a major issue for indoor ornamental trees unless fruit is setting.
2. Scale Insects:
   • Problem: Small, immobile, hard-shelled or soft-bodied insects that attach to stems and leaves, sucking sap. They excrete sticky honeydew.
   • Signs: Small bumps on stems/leaves, sticky residue, sooty mold growth (black fungus on honeydew).
   • Solution: Scrape off manually with a fingernail or soft brush. Treat with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. You can find horticultural oil for plants at most garden centers.
3. Mealybugs:
   • Problem: Soft-bodied insects covered in a white, cottony wax, found in leaf axils or on undersides of leaves, sucking sap. Also excrete honeydew.
   • Signs: White, fluffy masses, sticky residue.
   • Solution: Dab directly with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. For larger infestations, use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
4. Spider Mites:
   • Problem: Tiny arachnids that thrive in hot, dry conditions. Suck sap from leaves.
   • Signs: Fine webbing on leaves/stems, stippling (tiny dots) on leaves, yellowing or bronzing of leaves.
   • Solution: Increase humidity, spray plant thoroughly with water, use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.

Common Diseases and Issues of Dwarf Olive Trees:

1. Root Rot:
   • Problem: Fungal infection of roots.
   • Signs: Yellowing, drooping leaves, wilting, stunted growth, mushy stem base.
   • Cause: Overwatering (the most common cause of death for container olives) and poorly draining soil.
   • Solution: Prevent with well-draining soil and careful watering. If detected, unpot, cut away rotten roots, repot in fresh soil. Use a soil moisture meter to prevent overwatering.
2. Peacock Spot (Olive Leaf Spot - Spilocaea oleagina):
   • Problem: Fungal disease affecting leaves.
   • Signs: Small, dark spots with a yellow halo on leaves. Severe infections can lead to premature leaf drop. Cause: Humid, wet conditions.
   • Solution: Improve air circulation, prune for better light penetration, consider copper-based fungicides in severe cases.
3. Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporioides):
   • Problem: Fungal disease affecting fruit (and sometimes leaves).
   • Signs: Dark, sunken lesions on ripening fruit, leading to rot.
   • Cause: Wet, humid conditions during fruit development.
   • Solution: Prune for good air circulation, remove affected fruit/foliage, copper-based fungicides may be used preventatively.
4. Sooty Mold:
   • Problem: Black, superficial fungus.
   • Signs: Black, powdery or crusty coating on leaves.
   • Cause: Grows on honeydew excreted by sap-sucking insects (scale, mealybugs, aphids).
   • Solution: Treat the underlying insect problem. The mold will eventually flake off.

Regular visual inspection of your dwarf olive tree, combined with proper cultural practices (light, water, air circulation), is the best defense against both pests and diseases, ensuring your plant stays healthy and vibrant.