Can you grow Cherry Laurel from cuttings? - Plant Care Guide

Yes, you can grow Cherry Laurel from cuttings, and it is a very common and effective method of propagation for this popular evergreen shrub or tree (Prunus laurocerasus). Taking semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer or early fall, preparing them correctly, and providing a warm, humid environment dramatically increases the success rate. Growing Cherry Laurel from cuttings allows you to easily multiply your plants for hedges, screens, or specimen planting.

What is Cherry Laurel and Why Grow It?

Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a fast-growing, broadleaf evergreen shrub or small tree, highly valued in landscapes for its dense foliage, adaptability, and versatility. Understanding what Cherry Laurel is and why it's a popular choice helps appreciate why gardeners would want to easily multiply it by growing from cuttings.

Here's a breakdown of what Cherry Laurel is and why it's grown:

Botanical Identity: Belonging to the Prunus genus (the same genus as cherries, plums, and peaches), it is scientifically known as Prunus laurocerasus. The common name "Cherry Laurel" refers to its laurel-like leaves and the small, cherry-like fruits it produces.
Appearance:
- Leaves: Glossy, dark green, leathery, oval to oblong leaves that resemble those of true laurel. They are evergreen, providing year-round color.
- Flowers: In spring, it produces attractive spikes of small, fragrant white flowers, which are often quite subtle but beautiful.
- Fruit: Following the flowers, it develops small, dark red to black, cherry-like drupes. These fruits are mildly toxic to humans if ingested in large quantities, especially the seeds.
- Growth Habit: Can range from a dense, upright shrub to a small, multi-stemmed tree, reaching heights of 10-20 feet (3-6 meters) or more, with a similar spread. There are many cultivars with varying sizes and leaf forms.
Why Growers Choose Cherry Laurel:
1. Excellent Screening and Hedging Plant:
  - Dense Foliage: Its dense, evergreen foliage creates an effective visual and sound barrier.
  - Fast Growth: Cherry Laurel is a vigorous grower, making it ideal for quickly establishing privacy hedges, windbreaks, or property line screens.
2. Adaptability and Hardiness:
  - USDA Zones: Hardy in USDA Zones 6-9, making it suitable for a wide range of climates. Some varieties are even hardier.
  - Soil Tolerance: Tolerates various soil types, from sandy to clay, as long as they are well-draining.
  - Light Tolerance: Thrives in full sun to partial shade.
  - Drought Tolerance: Once established, it is relatively drought-tolerant.
3. Low Maintenance:
  - Generally easy to care for, requiring minimal pruning for shape and size (unless grown as a formal hedge).
4. Year-Round Interest:
  - Its evergreen leaves provide continuous greenery throughout all seasons, a valuable asset in winter landscapes. Spring flowers and fall fruit add seasonal interest.
5. Versatility:
  - Can be grown as a large shrub, a formal hedge, a small specimen tree, or even pruned for topiary.
6. Erosion Control:
  - Its dense root system can help stabilize soil on slopes.

Given its desirability for hedging and screening, the ability to easily grow Cherry Laurel from cuttings is a huge advantage for gardeners looking to create many plants cost-effectively.

What is the Best Time to Take Cherry Laurel Cuttings?

The best time to take Cherry Laurel cuttings is primarily in late summer to early fall, when the plant has produced its season's growth, and the wood has begun to mature but is not yet fully hardened. This type of cutting is known as semi-hardwood or semi-ripe and offers the highest success rate for rooting Cherry Laurel from cuttings.

Here's why this timing is optimal and what to look for:

Semi-Hardwood Stage (Ideal):
- Timing: This phase typically occurs from late July through September (or early October in warmer climates).
- Characteristics: The ideal stem for a semi-hardwood cutting will be:
  - Flexible but Firm: It should be firm enough that it snaps cleanly when bent sharply, but still flexible enough that it's not brittle or fully woody. Newest growth is usually too soft and wilts quickly; old, fully woody growth roots very slowly.
  - Mature Color: The stem will have transitioned from bright green to a slightly darker green or brownish-green, indicating it's starting to mature.
  - Developed Leaves: The leaves should be fully developed and look healthy.
- Why it's Best: At this stage, the stem has enough stored carbohydrates to fuel root development, but it's still physiologically active enough to produce roots efficiently. The bark is not too thick to impede root emergence.
Other Times (Less Ideal but Possible):
- Hardwood Cuttings (Late Fall/Winter): Can be taken when the plant is fully dormant and the wood is hard and woody. These are generally slower and have a lower success rate for Cherry Laurel, but some success can be achieved. They typically require rooting hormone and a longer rooting period.
- Softwood Cuttings (Spring/Early Summer): Taken from very new, soft, green growth. While some plants root well from softwood, Cherry Laurel softwood cuttings tend to wilt quickly and often fail before rooting, as they lack sufficient stored energy.
Avoid Extreme Weather:
- Do not take cuttings during periods of extreme heat, cold, or drought, as this will stress the parent plant and significantly reduce the viability of the cuttings.
Morning Harvest:
- Always take cuttings in the early morning when the plant is fully hydrated. This ensures the cuttings are turgid (full of water) and less likely to wilt.

By targeting the late summer to early fall window and selecting the appropriate semi-hardwood material, you set yourself up for the highest success rate when growing Cherry Laurel from cuttings.

What Materials Are Needed to Grow Cherry Laurel from Cuttings?

To successfully grow Cherry Laurel from cuttings, you'll need a specific set of materials to ensure clean cuts, encourage root development, and provide a stable, humid environment for the vulnerable cuttings. Having everything prepared before you begin will streamline the propagation process.

Here are the essential materials needed to grow Cherry Laurel from cuttings:

Clean, Sharp Pruning Shears or Knife:
- Purpose: To make clean, precise cuts on the parent plant. Ragged cuts can lead to rot.
- Sterilization: Crucially, sterilize your tools with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution before and between making cuts. This prevents the spread of diseases from the parent plant to the cuttings. Pruning shears are ideal.
Parent Cherry Laurel Plant:
- Source: A healthy, vigorous, disease-free Cherry Laurel from which to take cuttings.
Rooting Hormone:
- Purpose: To stimulate root development and increase the success rate. Cherry Laurel benefits greatly from rooting hormone.
- Type: A liquid, gel, or powder rooting hormone containing indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) is commonly used.
Well-Draining Rooting Medium:
- Purpose: To provide a stable, aerated, and consistently moist environment for roots to form without becoming waterlogged. Sterility is important.
- Recommended Mixes:
  - Perlite: 100% perlite provides excellent aeration and drainage.
  - Perlite and Peat Moss/Coco Coir Mix: A 50/50 mix offers good drainage while retaining more moisture. A seed starting mix often works well if light and well-draining.
  - Coarse Sand: Can be used alone or mixed with peat.
- Avoid: Heavy garden soil or standard potting soil, as they hold too much moisture and can cause rot.
Propagation Trays or Small Pots:
- Purpose: To hold the cuttings in the rooting medium.
- Features: Must have drainage holes! Propagation trays with cells, small 2-4 inch nursery pots, or even recycled containers (with drainage holes added) work well.
Humidity Dome or Clear Plastic Bag:
- Purpose: Crucial! To create a humid environment around the cuttings, preventing them from drying out (desiccating) before they have roots to absorb water.
- Options: A clear plastic propagation dome that fits over your tray, a clear plastic bag that can be loosely tented over pots, or even a large, clear plastic storage tote. A propagation dome kit often includes trays and domes.
Watering Can or Spray Bottle:
- Purpose: For moistening the rooting medium and misting the cuttings.
Heating Mat (Optional but Recommended):
- Purpose: To provide consistent bottom heat (70-75°F / 21-24°C), which significantly speeds up root development.
- Benefit: Highly recommended for woody cuttings like Cherry Laurel. A seedling heat mat is ideal.

By having all these materials needed to grow Cherry Laurel from cuttings ready, you optimize your chances for successful propagation, quickly multiplying these desirable plants for your landscape.

How to Prepare and Root Cherry Laurel Cuttings?

Preparing and rooting Cherry Laurel cuttings is a systematic process that, when followed carefully, significantly increases your success rate. The focus is on taking healthy cuttings, treating them to encourage root growth, and providing a stable, humid environment. This is the core skill for growing Cherry Laurel from cuttings.

Here’s how to prepare and root Cherry Laurel cuttings:

1. Prepare Your Materials and Workspace:

Sterilize Tools: Thoroughly clean and sterilize your pruning shears or knife with rubbing alcohol. This prevents disease.
Moisten Medium: Prepare your rooting medium (e.g., 50/50 perlite/peat moss mix) by moistening it thoroughly. It should be damp like a wrung-out sponge, not soggy. Fill your propagation trays or pots.
Set Up Humidity Dome/Bag: Have your humidity dome or plastic bag ready.

2. Take the Cuttings (Late Summer to Early Fall):

Select Healthy Stems: Choose vigorous, disease-free stems from the current season's growth that are in the semi-hardwood stage. They should snap cleanly when bent but still have some flexibility. Avoid very soft, new growth or old, woody stems.
Timing: Early morning is best when the plant is fully hydrated.
Cut Length: Cut 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) sections of stem.
Collect: Place cuttings in a bucket of water immediately after cutting to prevent wilting.

3. Prepare Individual Cuttings:

Remove Lower Leaves: Strip off all leaves from the bottom 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) of each cutting. These leaves would rot if submerged in the rooting medium, leading to fungal problems.
Make Final Cut: Make a fresh, clean cut just below a leaf node (where a leaf or bud grows) at the very base of the cutting. This area is where roots are most likely to emerge. You can also lightly scrape a small strip of bark from one side of the stem's base to expose more cambium layer, but this isn't always necessary for Cherry Laurel.
Score (Optional for thicker stems): For slightly thicker semi-hardwood, make a small, shallow cut (1/2 inch) up one side of the bark at the very base to expose more rooting tissue.
Reduce Leaf Surface Area (Optional but Recommended): If the remaining leaves are very large, you can cut them in half horizontally. This reduces the amount of water lost through transpiration, minimizing stress on the cutting before roots form.

4. Apply Rooting Hormone:

Purpose: To significantly boost rooting success.
Method: Dip the bottom 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the prepared cutting into rooting hormone powder or gel. Tap off any excess powder.
Avoid Contamination: Never dip the cutting directly into the main container of hormone. Pour a small amount into a separate cup or onto a clean surface.

5. Insert Cuttings into Rooting Medium:

Make Holes: Use a pencil or dibber to make small holes in the pre-moistened rooting medium.
Insert: Carefully insert each cutting into a hole, ensuring at least 1-2 nodes are buried in the medium.
Firm Gently: Gently firm the medium around each cutting to ensure good contact between the stem and the medium.
Spacing: Space cuttings far enough apart so their leaves don't touch, which helps with air circulation.

6. Provide a Humid Environment:

Cover: Immediately cover the entire tray or pots with your humidity dome or loosely tent a clear plastic bag over them.
Why: This creates a mini-greenhouse effect, trapping moisture around the cuttings and preventing them from wilting before they can form roots.
Ventilation: If excessive condensation builds up, lift the cover briefly once a day for a few minutes to allow for air exchange and prevent fungal growth.
Heating Mat (Recommended): Place the propagation tray on a seedling heat mat set to 70-75°F (21-24°C). Bottom heat significantly speeds up rooting for woody cuttings.

7. Ongoing Care During Rooting:

Monitor Moisture: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist, but not soggy. Mist the leaves if they appear to be drying, especially if the humidity dome isn't sealing perfectly.
Light: Provide bright, indirect light. Avoid direct, harsh sunlight.
Patience: Cherry Laurel cuttings can take 4-8 weeks (or longer) to root.
Check for Roots: After a few weeks, gently tug on a cutting. If you feel resistance, roots are forming. You might also see white roots through the drainage holes.

By following these detailed steps to prepare and root Cherry Laurel cuttings, you provide the optimal conditions for successful propagation, allowing you to easily multiply these beautiful evergreens.

What Are the Optimal Conditions for Rooting Cherry Laurel Cuttings?

To maximize your success when growing Cherry Laurel from cuttings, providing optimal conditions for rooting is paramount. These conditions ensure the cuttings remain hydrated, are stimulated to produce roots efficiently, and are protected from disease. Mastering these environmental controls is key to propagating healthy Cherry Laurel.

Here are the optimal conditions for rooting Cherry Laurel cuttings:

High Humidity (Non-Negotiable!):
- Why it's Crucial: Cuttings have no roots to absorb water, so they lose moisture rapidly through their leaves (transpiration). High humidity (80-95%) reduces this water loss, keeping the cuttings turgid (firm) and alive until roots form.
- How to Achieve: Use a propagation dome or loosely tent a clear plastic bag over the cuttings. This traps moisture.
- Balance: If condensation is excessive, briefly vent the cover daily to prevent fungal issues.
Warm Rooting Medium Temperature (Crucial for Woody Cuttings):
- Ideal Range: Maintain the temperature of the rooting medium between 70°F and 75°F (21°C-24°C).
- Why it's Crucial: Consistent bottom heat significantly stimulates cell division and speeds up root initiation for woody plants like Cherry Laurel.
- How to Achieve: Place propagation trays on a seedling heat mat set to the desired temperature.
Bright, Indirect Light:
- Why it's Crucial: Cuttings still need light for photosynthesis (to produce sugars for energy), but they are highly susceptible to scorching.
- How to Achieve: Place the propagation setup in a location with bright, filtered light (e.g., near an east-facing window, or under grow lights positioned at an appropriate distance).
- Avoid: Direct, intense sunlight, which can quickly overheat the cuttings and cause them to wilt and die.
Well-Draining, Sterile Rooting Medium:
- Why it's Crucial: Provides physical support, holds consistent moisture, and ensures aeration, all without becoming waterlogged (which causes rot). Sterility prevents fungal and bacterial infections.
- Recommended Mixes: A 50/50 mix of perlite and peat moss (or coco coir), 100% perlite, or coarse horticultural sand.
- Avoid: Heavy garden soil or standard potting soil.
- Moisture: Keep the medium consistently moist, like a wrung-out sponge.
Good Air Circulation (External):
- Why it's Crucial: While high humidity around the cuttings is needed, the overall area should still have some air movement to prevent stagnant conditions that promote disease.
- How to Achieve: Use a small fan in the propagation area (not blowing directly on the cuttings). Briefly vent humidity domes.
Healthy Cuttings:
- Quality Input: Starting with vigorous, disease-free semi-hardwood cuttings from a healthy parent plant is foundational.
- Rooting Hormone: Application of rooting hormone significantly improves success rates by stimulating root cell formation.

By meticulously providing these optimal conditions for rooting Cherry Laurel cuttings, you create the ideal environment for success, ensuring your cuttings develop robust root systems and grow into thriving new plants.

How to Pot Up and Care for Rooted Cherry Laurel Cuttings?

Once your Cherry Laurel cuttings have successfully rooted, the next critical steps are to properly pot them up and provide appropriate aftercare. This transition from the rooting environment to individual pots needs to be gradual and supportive to prevent transplant shock and ensure the young plants continue to thrive, ultimately growing into robust Cherry Laurel shrubs or trees.

Here’s how to pot up and care for rooted Cherry Laurel cuttings:

1. When to Pot Up Rooted Cuttings:

Root Development: Wait until the cuttings have developed a robust root system.
- Visual Cues: You should see healthy, white roots that are at least 1-2 inches long, often visible through the drainage holes of the propagation tray.
- Resistance: Gently tug on a cutting; if you feel significant resistance, it's well-rooted.
- New Top Growth: While roots are key, new leaf growth is also a good sign of successful rooting.
Timing: This typically takes 4-8 weeks or longer, depending on conditions.

2. Prepare for Potting Up:

Acclimation (Gradual Transition):
- Purpose: Before potting, gradually acclimate the rooted cuttings to lower humidity. For a few days, lift the humidity dome or open the plastic bag for increasing periods each day. This prepares them for the drier air outside the propagation environment.
Materials:
- Small Pots: Choose 4-inch (10 cm) nursery pots with good drainage holes.
- Potting Mix: Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix suitable for shrubs. Avoid heavy garden soil. You can amend with a little extra perlite for drainage.
- Watering Can: For watering after potting.

3. Pot Up the Rooted Cuttings:

Prepare the Pots: Fill the small pots with moistened potting mix, leaving about 1 inch of space from the rim.
Remove Cutting: Gently remove a rooted cutting from the propagation medium. If in a tray, use a dibber or small spoon to carefully lift it, disturbing the new roots as little as possible.
Create a Hole: Make a small hole in the center of the new pot, large enough for the roots to fit without bending or breaking.
Place Cutting: Carefully set the rooted cutting into the hole, ensuring the root ball is at the same depth as it was in the rooting medium. The stem should be upright.
Backfill: Gently fill in around the roots with potting mix, lightly firming it down to remove large air pockets.
Water Thoroughly: Water the newly potted cutting immediately and thoroughly until water drains from the bottom. This settles the soil around the roots. Discard excess water.

4. Post-Potting Aftercare:

Light: Place the newly potted cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light for the first 1-2 weeks. Avoid direct, harsh sunlight immediately after potting to prevent transplant shock.
Temperature: Maintain consistent, moderate temperatures (65-75°F / 18-24°C).
Watering: Keep the potting mix consistently moist but never soggy. Check with your finger or a soil moisture meter. The individual pots will likely dry out faster than the propagation tray.
Humidity: Continue to provide slightly higher humidity for a few days to a week (e.g., by grouping plants or placing them near a humidifier), gradually reducing it as the plant acclimates to ambient conditions.
Fertilization: Do not fertilize immediately after potting. The fresh potting mix should provide enough nutrients initially. Wait 4-6 weeks, or until you see strong new leaf growth, before beginning a very gentle, diluted feeding schedule (e.g., half-strength liquid fertilizer).
Patience and Monitoring: Continue to monitor your young Cherry Laurel plants for signs of stress, pests, or diseases. They will put on new top growth as they become established.

By following these comprehensive steps to pot up and care for rooted Cherry Laurel cuttings, you ensure a successful transition for your young plants, guiding them towards becoming robust and beautiful additions to your garden.