Can You Grow Summer and Autumn Raspberries Together? - Plant Care Guide

Yes, you can absolutely grow summer-bearing and autumn-bearing (everbearing) raspberries together in the same garden space. This strategy is often employed by gardeners to extend their fresh raspberry harvest significantly, enjoying berries from early summer through to the first hard frost. The key to successful cohabitation lies in understanding their distinct fruiting habits and applying appropriate, but separate, pruning techniques for each type.

What is the main difference between summer-bearing and autumn-bearing raspberries?

The main difference between summer-bearing and autumn-bearing (also known as everbearing or fall-bearing) raspberries lies in their fruiting habits and the canes on which they produce fruit. This distinction is crucial for understanding how to care for and prune each type.

Summer-Bearing Raspberries (Floricanes / "June-Bearing"):

• Fruiting Habit: These raspberries produce one large crop of berries per year, typically in early to mid-summer (June to August, depending on climate and variety).
• Cane Type: They produce fruit on floricanes.
  • Primocanes: In their first year, canes emerge from the ground. These are called primocanes (first-year canes). Primocanes grow vegetatively and do not produce fruit in their first year.
  • Floricanes: The primocanes from the previous year survive the winter and become floricanes (second-year canes). These floricanes are the ones that produce fruit in the summer. After fruiting, these floricanes die back.
• Pruning: The entire floricane that just fruited must be cut back to the ground after harvest. This allows new primocanes to grow for the following year's crop.
• Examples: 'Heritage', 'Meeker', 'Boyne', 'Latham', 'Canby'.

Autumn-Bearing Raspberries (Primocanes / Everbearing / "Fall-Bearing"):

• Fruiting Habit: These raspberries produce fruit on primocanes (first-year canes). They typically offer two potential harvests:
  • First Harvest: A main crop in late summer to autumn (August to October) on the upper portion of the primocanes that grew that spring.
  • Second Harvest (Optional): If these primocanes are left to overwinter, the lower portion of the cane will produce a smaller second crop the following summer (earlier than summer-bearing varieties, often June/July).
• Cane Type: They produce fruit primarily on primocanes.
• Pruning:
  • Single Harvest (Simpler): For a single, larger fall crop, all canes are cut back to the ground in late winter (February/March) before new growth begins. This eliminates the summer crop but simplifies pruning.
  • Double Harvest (More Complex): For two crops, the portion of the primocane that fruited in the fall is cut back in late winter. The lower, unfruited portion is left to become a floricane and produce an early summer crop, after which it dies and is cut back.
• Examples: 'Autumn Bliss', 'Heritage', 'Caroline', 'Fallgold' (yellow everbearing).

Key Takeaway: Summer-bearing varieties fruit on old wood (floricanes), giving one concentrated summer harvest. Autumn-bearing varieties fruit on new wood (primocanes), offering a fall harvest and, optionally, a smaller summer harvest on the same canes in their second year. This fundamental difference dictates their care and pruning, which must be adapted if growing them together.

What are the benefits of planting both types of raspberries in a garden?

Planting both summer-bearing and autumn-bearing (everbearing) raspberries in a garden offers a significant benefit: a greatly extended fresh raspberry harvest season. This strategy maximizes your yield and enjoyment of homegrown berries over several months.

Here are the specific benefits:

1. Extended Harvest Season: This is the primary and most attractive advantage.

   • Summer Varieties: Provide an initial, abundant harvest in early to mid-summer (June-August).
   • Autumn Varieties: Begin producing berries in late summer and continue through fall (August-October), often until the first hard frost.
   • Continuous Supply: By combining the two, you can have fresh raspberries available for picking for three to four months or even longer, instead of just a few weeks. This means more berries for eating fresh, baking, jams, and freezing.

2. Increased Overall Yield: While individual varieties have their peak, having both types ensures that even if one type has a slightly lower yield in a given year, the other may compensate. The combined production typically results in a higher total amount of fruit from your patch.

3. Variety in Flavor and Texture: Different raspberry varieties often have subtle differences in flavor, sweetness, and texture. Growing both allows you to experience a wider range of sensory qualities in your homegrown fruit.

4. Resilience to Weather Fluctuations: If adverse weather conditions (e.g., a late spring frost, an intense heatwave) impact the harvest of one type of raspberry, the other type, fruiting at a different time, might remain unaffected. This provides a form of crop insurance.

5. Optimized Garden Space: If you have the space, planting both types is an efficient way to make the most of your berry patch, as you're using the same ground to produce fruit over a longer period.

6. Continuous Support for Pollinators: Having plants blooming and fruiting over an extended period provides a more continuous food source for local pollinators, such as bees, which contributes to a healthier garden ecosystem.

To fully reap these benefits, it is crucial to understand and implement the distinct pruning requirements for each type. Otherwise, you might inadvertently compromise the harvest of one or both varieties.

Should I plant summer and autumn raspberries in separate areas?

Yes, for ease of care and optimal harvest, it is highly recommended to plant summer-bearing and autumn-bearing raspberries in separate, distinct areas or rows. While they can coexist in the same garden, mixing them without clear separation can lead to confusion during pruning and potentially reduced yields for both types.

Here's why separate planting is beneficial:

1. Simplified Pruning: This is the most important reason for separation.

   • Different Pruning Cycles: Summer-bearing raspberries are pruned after their summer harvest, removing only the floricanes that have fruited. Autumn-bearing raspberries, if managed for a single fall crop, are cut entirely to the ground in late winter. If managed for two crops, their pruning involves removing only the upper portion of the primocane that fruited in fall, leaving the lower part for a summer crop.
   • Avoid Confusion: If planted haphazardly together, it becomes incredibly difficult to distinguish which canes are floricanes (second-year summer-bearing), primocanes (first-year autumn-bearing), or floricanes (second-year autumn-bearing for a second crop).
   • Risk of Incorrect Pruning: Incorrect pruning can lead to accidentally cutting away canes that were meant to fruit, drastically reducing your harvest from one or both types.

2. Optimized Growing Conditions:

   • While both prefer full sun and well-drained soil, specific varieties might have subtle preferences. Separating them allows for slightly different care if needed, such as targeted fertilization.
   • Different varieties can also have different growth habits (some are more vigorous spreaders than others), and separation can help manage their spread.

3. Disease Management:

   • Separating varieties can help slow the spread of certain diseases or pests if one variety is more susceptible. Good airflow between rows is always beneficial.

4. Easier Harvesting:

   • With distinct rows or patches, it's easier to identify which plants are currently producing fruit, making harvesting more efficient.

How to Achieve Separation:

• Distinct Rows: The simplest method is to plant them in separate, clearly marked rows. Leave a pathway or a non-raspberry area between the rows.
• Physical Barriers: You can use physical barriers, such as a raised bed for one type and an in-ground bed for the other, or install root barriers (though raspberries are vigorous spreaders).
• Container Growing: If space is very limited, you could grow one type in a large container (though this requires more diligent watering and feeding) and the other in the ground.

By dedicating separate areas for summer-bearing and autumn-bearing raspberries, you ensure that each type receives the correct pruning and care, leading to a healthier patch and a more abundant, extended harvest for years to come.

What are the specific pruning techniques for summer-bearing raspberries?

The specific pruning techniques for summer-bearing raspberries are focused on removing canes that have already fruited (floricanes), as they will not produce fruit again and will simply compete for resources. This selective pruning encourages the growth of new primocanes for the following year's harvest.

Summer-bearing raspberries produce fruit on second-year canes (floricanes).

When to Prune Summer-Bearing Raspberries:

• The best time to prune summer-bearing raspberries is immediately after their summer harvest is complete. This is typically in late summer or early fall.
• Pruning at this time allows the plant's energy to be redirected to the new primocanes that are growing for the next year's crop, rather than supporting old, unproductive canes. It also improves air circulation, reducing disease risk.

How to Prune Summer-Bearing Raspberries (Step-by-Step):

1. Identify Floricanes: These are the canes that just finished producing fruit. They will typically look woodier, sometimes slightly discolored (brownish/grayish), and may have some remaining dead fruit stems. They often have side branches where fruit developed.
2. Cut Floricanes to the Ground: Using clean, sharp gardening shears or loppers, cut every single floricane that just fruited all the way down to the ground level. Do not leave stubs, as these can harbor pests or diseases.
3. Identify and Select Primocanes: At the same time, you will see new, green, vigorous canes growing from the ground. These are the primocanes that emerged this season and will become next year's floricanes.
4. Thin Primocanes (if overcrowded): If the patch is too dense, you should thin these primocanes to encourage good air circulation and light penetration, and to ensure adequate space for strong growth.
   • Aim for 6-8 of the strongest, healthiest primocanes per linear foot of row (or 8-10 canes per hill, if growing in hills).
   • Remove any weak, spindly, diseased, or damaged primocanes by cutting them to the ground.
5. Remove Suckers: Raspberries spread aggressively by suckers (new canes emerging outside the main row or desired planting area). Cut these unwanted suckers to the ground to maintain your raspberry patch within its designated boundaries.
6. Clean Up: Remove all pruned canes and debris from the patch to reduce the risk of disease and overwintering pests.

Winter/Spring Maintenance (Optional):

• In late winter or early spring (before new growth begins), you can do a light tidy-up:
  • Remove any damaged or dead canes that didn't survive winter.
  • Tip back any exceptionally tall primocanes (that will be floricanes) if they are much taller than your trellis system, to encourage side branching and easier harvesting.

By consistently following this post-harvest pruning method, you ensure that your summer-bearing raspberry plants focus their energy on producing next year's fruit, leading to a healthy, productive patch.

What are the specific pruning techniques for autumn-bearing (everbearing) raspberries?

The specific pruning techniques for autumn-bearing (everbearing) raspberries are more flexible than summer-bearing varieties, as they can be managed to produce one large fall crop or two smaller crops (fall and then summer). The choice dictates the pruning method.

Autumn-bearing raspberries produce fruit on first-year canes (primocanes), primarily in the fall. If these canes are left, the lower portion can fruit again in the second year (as floricanes) for an early summer crop.

Option 1: Single Annual Fall Crop (Simpler and Often Recommended)

This method focuses on maximizing the autumn harvest and greatly simplifies pruning.

• When to Prune: Late winter or early spring (February-March), before new growth begins.
• How to Prune (Step-by-Step):
  1. Cut All Canes to the Ground: Using clean, sharp gardening shears, cut every single raspberry cane in the autumn-bearing patch down to ground level.
  2. Remove Debris: Clear all pruned canes and debris from the patch.
  3. New Growth: New primocanes will emerge from the ground in spring, grow throughout the summer, and then produce their main crop of fruit in late summer/fall.
• Benefits: Simplest pruning, usually results in a larger, more concentrated fall crop, avoids disease issues from overwintering canes.
• Drawbacks: No summer crop from these plants.

Option 2: Two Crops Per Year (Fall and Early Summer)

This method aims for a fall crop and then a subsequent early summer crop from the same canes, but it is more complex.

• When to Prune:
  • Late Fall/Early Winter (after fall harvest): Immediately after the fall harvest, prune the top portion of each cane that just fruited. Cut back to a point just below where it produced fruit, or about one-third to one-half way down the cane. The remaining lower portion is a primocane that will become next year's floricane.
  • Mid-Summer (after second crop): After the smaller early summer crop finishes, cut those floricanes (which were the lower part of last year's primocanes) all the way to the ground, as they will not produce fruit again.
• How to Prune (Step-by-Step):
  1. After Fall Harvest: Identify the canes that just fruited in the fall. Cut the upper, fruited section of these canes back, leaving strong, healthy lower sections.
  2. Spring/Summer Management: In spring, allow new primocanes to grow (these will fruit in the coming fall) and observe the lower sections of last year's primocanes (these will fruit in early summer).
  3. Thinning: Throughout the growing season, thin out weaker primocanes and suckers to maintain plant vigor and air circulation. Aim for 6-8 strong canes per linear foot.
  4. After Early Summer Harvest: Once the early summer crop on the second-year floricanes is complete, cut those entire canes down to the ground.
• Benefits: Provides two harvests from the same plants, extending the season further than just a fall crop.
• Drawbacks: More complicated pruning, the summer crop is often smaller and less robust than dedicated summer-bearing varieties, and it can increase the risk of disease if old canes are left too long.

For most home gardeners, Option 1 (single annual fall crop) is preferred for its simplicity and the usually larger, more reliable fall harvest. If you choose Option 2, careful labeling or distinct planting rows (as recommended) is absolutely essential.

How do I ensure proper spacing and support for combined raspberry types?

Ensuring proper spacing and support for combined raspberry types (summer and autumn-bearing) is critical for their health, productivity, and ease of harvesting. Both types benefit from an organized system that promotes air circulation and prevents canes from sprawling.

Proper Spacing:

1. Separate Rows or Patches: As highly recommended, plant summer-bearing and autumn-bearing raspberries in distinct, separate rows or patches. This prevents pruning confusion and manages their vigorous growth.
2. In-Row Spacing:
   • Raspberry plants spread by suckers from their root systems. To maintain a productive and manageable row, aim for a "hedge row" system.
   • Allow canes to emerge within a 12-18 inch wide band along your row.
   • Within this band, aim for 4-6 healthy, strong canes per linear foot of row. Thin out weaker, spindly, or diseased canes to this density. This provides adequate air circulation and light penetration for each cane.
3. Between-Row Spacing:
   • If you have multiple rows (e.g., a summer row and an autumn row), ensure there's enough space between them for maintenance and harvesting. A minimum of 4-6 feet between rows is ideal for walking and allowing air circulation.
4. Sucker Management: Regularly remove any suckers that emerge outside your designated 12-18 inch wide row by cutting them to the ground. This keeps your patch tidy and prevents unwanted spreading.

Support Systems (Trellises):

Both summer and autumn-bearing raspberries benefit greatly from a trellis system to keep their canes upright, prevent flopping, facilitate harvesting, and improve air circulation.

1. "T-Bar" or "Post and Wire" Trellis: This is a common and effective system for raspberries.

   • Materials:
     • Sturdy end posts (e.g., 4x4 lumber, metal T-posts) spaced 10-15 feet apart along the row.
     • Several strands of heavy-gauge wire (e.g., 12-14 gauge galvanized wire) run horizontally along the length of the row.
   • Construction:
     • Drive or set posts firmly into the ground at each end of the row.
     • String two or three wires horizontally between the posts. The lowest wire can be about 2-3 feet high, and subsequent wires at 1-foot intervals above that.
     • For a T-bar system, you can attach cross-arms to the posts (e.g., 2x4 lumber, 18-24 inches long) and run wires from the ends of these cross-arms, creating a wider support.
   • How it works: The canes grow up between the wires, which support them. For a T-bar, the canes are contained within the two outer wires on each side.
   • Benefit: Keeps canes upright and contained. Makes it easy to identify and prune canes.

2. Individual Stake or Stanchion (for Smaller Patches or Hills):

   • For smaller, more contained patches or if growing in a "hill" system, you can use a sturdy individual stake (e.g., 5-6 foot metal or wooden stake) driven into the center of each hill.
   • Tie the canes loosely to the stake as they grow using soft ties (e.g., plant ties or strips of old cloth).

Advantages of Proper Spacing and Support:

• Increased Air Circulation: Reduces the risk of fungal diseases (like powdery mildew and anthracnose).
• Better Light Penetration: Ensures all canes receive adequate sunlight for optimal fruit production.
• Easier Harvesting: Berries are more accessible and less likely to be hidden or get squashed.
• Improved Plant Health: Stronger, healthier canes and overall better plant vigor.
• Tidier Appearance: Prevents the patch from becoming an overgrown, impenetrable thicket.

By implementing a well-planned spacing and support system, especially separate rows for different types, you'll create a manageable, productive, and beautiful raspberry patch.

What are the ideal soil and sun conditions for growing both types of raspberries?

Both summer-bearing and autumn-bearing raspberries have very similar ideal soil and sun conditions, requiring full sun and well-draining, rich, slightly acidic soil to thrive and produce abundant harvests. Meeting these fundamental needs is critical for the success of any raspberry patch.

Sun Conditions:

• Full Sun is Paramount: Raspberries need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth and fruit production.
  • Energy for Fruit: Ample sunlight provides the energy for photosynthesis, which is essential for developing sweet, flavorful berries and strong canes.
  • Reduced Disease: Full sun helps keep foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal diseases that thrive in damp, shady conditions.
• Partial Sun (Avoid if Possible): While they might tolerate 4-6 hours of sun, especially morning sun in very hot climates, yields will be lower, and canes may become leggier and less sturdy. In anything less than partial sun, raspberry plants will struggle significantly.

Soil Conditions:

1. Well-Draining Soil:

   • Critical: This is the most important soil requirement. Raspberries cannot tolerate "wet feet" or soggy soil, which leads to root rot and plant death.
   • Improvement: If you have heavy clay soil, amend it heavily with organic matter like compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss to improve drainage. Raised beds are an excellent solution for areas with poor drainage.
   • Avoid Compaction: Work the soil deeply to ensure good drainage.

2. Rich in Organic Matter:

   • Nutrient Retention: Soil rich in organic matter improves drainage, but also enhances its ability to retain moisture (without becoming waterlogged) and nutrients, which are slowly released to the plants.
   • Feeds Soil Life: Organic matter supports beneficial soil microorganisms and earthworms, creating a healthier soil ecosystem.
   • Amendment: Before planting, work a 2-4 inch layer of good quality compost into the top 12-18 inches of your soil.

3. Slightly Acidic pH:

   • Ideal Range: Raspberries prefer a slightly acidic soil pH, typically between 6.0 and 6.8. This range ensures optimal availability of essential nutrients for the plants.
   • Testing: It's highly recommended to perform a soil test before planting to determine your soil's current pH and nutrient levels.
   • Adjustments: If your soil is too alkaline, you can lower the pH by adding elemental sulfur or peat moss. If it's too acidic, you can raise it with lime (calcium carbonate). Make these adjustments gradually.

4. Fertility:

   • Raspberries are moderate to heavy feeders, especially once established and producing fruit.
   • Initial Feeding: The initial amendment with compost provides a good start.
   • Ongoing: Annually, top-dress the soil around the plants with 1-2 inches of compost in early spring. You can also use a balanced granular fertilizer designed for fruit production (e.g., 10-10-10 or 5-10-10) in early spring, following package directions. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can lead to lush foliage but less fruit.

By providing these ideal sun and soil conditions, along with proper pruning and support, your raspberry patch, whether summer-bearing, autumn-bearing, or both, will be set up for years of delicious harvests.

What is a 'primocane' and a 'floricane' in raspberry growth?

In raspberry growth, a 'primocane' is a first-year cane that grows vegetatively without producing fruit, while a 'floricane' is a second-year cane that has matured and produces fruit. Understanding this distinction is fundamental to correctly pruning raspberries and predicting their harvest times.

Here's a breakdown of each:

Primocane:

• Definition: A primocane is a new cane that emerges directly from the ground (from the crown of the plant) in the current growing season. It is the plant's first-year growth.
• Appearance: Typically green and flexible, often with fewer side branches than a floricane.
• Fruiting:
  • Summer-Bearing Raspberries: Primocanes on summer-bearing varieties do NOT produce fruit in their first year. They simply grow and store energy.
  • Autumn-Bearing (Everbearing) Raspberries: Primocanes on autumn-bearing varieties DO produce fruit. They bear a crop of berries in late summer to fall (on the upper third to half of the cane that grew that year).
• Life Cycle: Primocanes from the current year will overwinter and mature into floricanes in the following growing season.

Floricane:

• Definition: A floricane is a second-year cane that was a primocane in the previous growing season. It has survived the winter and matured.
• Appearance: Typically woodier, often browner or grayer than a primocane, and may have more branching.
• Fruiting:
  • Summer-Bearing Raspberries: Floricanes on summer-bearing varieties produce their main, singular crop of fruit in early to mid-summer. After fruiting, these floricanes die.
  • Autumn-Bearing (Everbearing) Raspberries: If primocanes from autumn-bearing varieties are left to overwinter after their fall crop, the lower, unfruited portion of these canes will become floricanes and produce a smaller, earlier summer crop the following year. After fruiting, these floricanes also die.
• Life Cycle: After a floricane produces its fruit (whether in summer or early summer for everbearing types), it has completed its life cycle and will die.

Why this Distinction Matters for Pruning:

• Summer-Bearing: You cut floricanes (old, fruited canes) to the ground after harvest. You keep primocanes (new, first-year canes) for next year's crop.
• Autumn-Bearing (Single Crop): You cut all canes (primocanes that fruited in fall) to the ground in late winter, letting new primocanes grow for the next fall.
• Autumn-Bearing (Two Crops): You cut the top, fruited portion of primocanes in late fall. You then cut the remaining floricanes (that produce the early summer crop) to the ground after their summer harvest.

Understanding the difference between primocanes and floricanes is absolutely essential for anyone growing raspberries, as it guides all pruning decisions and directly impacts the timing and abundance of your harvests.

What are the watering and fertilization needs for raspberry plants?

Raspberry plants have specific watering and fertilization needs that are crucial for healthy growth, abundant fruit production, and maintaining vigor, especially since they are moderate to heavy feeders. Meeting these needs consistently ensures a productive patch.

Watering Needs:

• Consistent Moisture is Key: Raspberries require consistent moisture, especially during flowering and fruit development. They are not drought-tolerant, and inconsistent watering can lead to smaller, crumbly berries.
• Well-Draining Soil is Essential: While they need moisture, their roots cannot tolerate soggy or waterlogged conditions, which cause root rot. The soil must drain well.
• Depth of Watering: When you water, do so deeply to encourage roots to grow down. Aim for about 1-1.5 inches of water per week, including rainfall.
• How to Water:
  • Drip Irrigation or Soaker Hoses: These are ideal as they deliver water directly to the root zone, minimize water loss to evaporation, and keep foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. You can find soaker hoses online.
  • Hand Watering: If hand watering, ensure you soak the root zone thoroughly, rather than just sprinkling the surface.
  • Monitor Soil Moisture: Check the soil regularly. Stick your finger 1-2 inches deep; if it feels dry, it's time to water. A soil moisture meter can also be useful.
• Mulch: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch (e.g., straw, wood chips, shredded leaves, compost) around the base of the plants. This helps retain soil moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature. Keep mulch a few inches away from the canes themselves to avoid moisture buildup.

Fertilization Needs:

Raspberries benefit from regular, but not excessive, fertilization. They are particularly responsive to organic matter.

1. Before Planting (Initial Soil Amendment):

   • This is the most important feeding. Work in plenty of good quality compost or well-rotted manure (2-4 inches deep, mixed into the top 12-18 inches of soil) to provide a slow-release nutrient source and improve soil structure.

2. Annual Spring Feeding (Maintenance):

   • When: In early spring, just as new growth begins.
   • What:
     • Compost: The best and most recommended method is to top-dress with a 1-2 inch layer of compost around the base of the plants. This provides balanced nutrients and continuously improves soil health.
     • Balanced Granular Fertilizer: If compost isn't available, or if a soil test indicates specific deficiencies, use a balanced granular fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10, 5-10-10, or a fruit-specific blend).
       • Avoid High Nitrogen: Be cautious with fertilizers too high in nitrogen, as this can promote excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit production and make canes more susceptible to disease. A ratio with slightly higher phosphorus and potassium is often preferred for fruiting plants.
     • Application: Sprinkle granular fertilizers evenly around the drip line (avoiding direct contact with canes), lightly scratch into the soil, and water thoroughly. Always follow package directions.

3. No Late-Season Fertilization:

   • Avoid: Do not fertilize raspberries in late summer or fall. This can encourage tender new growth that is vulnerable to winter damage.

4. Monitor Plant Health:

   • Observe your plants for signs of nutrient deficiencies (e.g., yellowing leaves might indicate nitrogen or iron deficiency). A soil test every few years can help pinpoint specific nutrient needs and pH imbalances.

By providing consistent watering, especially during key growth stages, and a balanced feeding program with a focus on organic matter, you can keep your raspberry plants vigorous and ensure bountiful harvests year after year.

What is the expected harvest time for each raspberry type when grown together?

When summer-bearing and autumn-bearing (everbearing) raspberries are grown together, you can expect an extended harvest period that typically spans from early summer through to the first hard frost in autumn. This combination provides a continuous supply of fresh berries for several months.

Here's the expected harvest time for each type:

1. Summer-Bearing Raspberries:

• Expected Harvest: One main, concentrated crop in early to mid-summer.
  • Timing: This typically occurs from June through July, depending on your specific climate, the variety you've chosen, and local weather conditions.
  • Duration: The harvest window for a summer-bearing variety is usually around 3-5 weeks. During this period, you'll have a flush of berries for daily picking.
• Fruiting: These berries develop on floricanes (second-year canes that grew as primocanes the previous year).

2. Autumn-Bearing (Everbearing) Raspberries:

The harvest time for autumn-bearing raspberries depends on how you choose to prune them:

• Option A: Single Annual Fall Crop (Most Common & Simplest Management):

  • Expected Harvest: One main crop in late summer through autumn.
  • Timing: This typically begins in August and continues through September and October, often until the first hard freeze or heavy frost.
  • Duration: This harvest window can be quite long, often 6-8 weeks or even longer, providing a continuous trickle or heavier flush of berries.
  • Fruiting: These berries develop on primocanes (first-year canes that grew that same spring and summer).
  • Benefit: This provides the longest individual harvest period and is the easiest to manage.

• Option B: Two Crops Per Year (Fall and Early Summer):

  • First Harvest (Fall): Same as above, a fall crop on the primocanes, typically from August through October.
  • Second Harvest (Early Summer): A smaller crop on the lower portions of the primocanes that fruited in the fall and were left to overwinter (now acting as floricanes).
    • Timing: This typically occurs in June or early July, often before or concurrently with the main summer-bearing varieties.
    • Duration: This second crop is usually smaller and lasts for a shorter period (perhaps 2-3 weeks).
  • Benefit: Maximizes the output from individual everbearing plants across two seasons.
  • Drawback: More complex pruning and the summer crop is often less robust than dedicated summer-bearing varieties.

Combined Harvest Overview:

By growing both summer-bearing varieties (e.g., 'Heritage', 'Meeker') and autumn-bearing varieties (e.g., 'Caroline', 'Autumn Bliss') managed for a single fall crop, your fresh raspberry season could look like this:

• June - July: Summer-bearing varieties produce their main harvest.
• August - October/First Frost: Autumn-bearing varieties produce their continuous fall harvest.

This means you could be picking fresh raspberries for approximately 4 to 5 months out of the year, which is a fantastic benefit for any berry lover. If you manage the autumn-bearing types for two crops, you might even have some overlap or an earlier start in June.