Can you move fully grown trees? - Plant Care Guide

Yes, you can move fully grown trees, but it is a complex, costly, and high-risk undertaking that requires specialized equipment, extensive planning, and often professional expertise. While not an everyday gardening task, large tree relocation is feasible for preserving significant specimens, provided the tree is healthy, the proper technique is used, and meticulous aftercare is provided. The success rate decreases dramatically with tree size and age.

What Defines a "Fully Grown" Tree for Relocation Purposes?

For relocation purposes, a "fully grown" tree doesn't necessarily mean it has reached its maximum mature height, but rather a size and age where manual transplanting is no longer feasible, requiring specialized heavy equipment like a tree spade. It signifies a significant investment in both the tree itself and the resources needed for its move.

• Size and Age: A tree is generally considered "fully grown" for professional relocation when its trunk diameter, height, and root ball size are too large to be dug and moved by hand. This typically applies to:
  • Trunk Diameter: Often exceeding 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) at breast height (DBH).
  • Height: Exceeding 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) in height.
  • Age: Beyond its sapling stage, usually 5-10+ years old.
• Root Ball Size: The critical limiting factor. The root ball required to sustain a large tree during transplant is enormous, often weighing thousands of pounds (kilograms) and requiring specialized equipment to extract and move.
• Need for Specialized Equipment: The defining characteristic. "Fully grown" implies the need for mechanical tree spades, cranes, or other heavy machinery to lift and transport the tree, distinguishing it from smaller trees that can be moved by hand or with simple dollies.
• Not at Maximum Size: A "fully grown" tree for relocation is usually still growing and has not reached its ultimate mature size (which might be 50-100+ feet tall). It's a large, established tree in its current location.

Relocating such a tree is a major project, signifying its importance to the landscape or homeowner.

Why is Moving Fully Grown Trees a High-Risk Endeavor?

Moving fully grown trees is a high-risk endeavor primarily due to the inevitable and extensive root damage incurred during transplanting, which severely impacts the tree's ability to absorb water and nutrients. This stress, combined with the sheer size and weight of the tree, significantly threatens its survival.

1. Extensive Root Loss (Major Cause of Risk):
   • Mechanism: A tree's root system is typically much wider than its canopy. When a tree spade digs a root ball, it can only capture a fraction (often as little as 5-10%) of the tree's entire root system, severing the vast majority of its fine, water-absorbing feeder roots.
   • Consequence: The tree suddenly loses most of its capacity to absorb water and nutrients, leading to severe transplant shock and dehydration.
2. Transplant Shock:
   • Mechanism: The combination of massive root loss, changes in environment, and physical disturbance severely stresses the tree.
   • Consequence: The tree's metabolic processes are disrupted. It may exhibit wilting, leaf drop, branch dieback, and stunted growth. Recovery can take several years.
3. Water Imbalance:
   • Mechanism: After root loss, the remaining root system often cannot supply enough water to the existing foliage, especially if the tree is moved during active growth or in hot, dry conditions.
   • Consequence: The tree rapidly dehydrates, leading to leaf scorch, branch dieback, and potentially death.
4. Susceptibility to Pests and Diseases:
   • Mechanism: A severely stressed tree has a compromised immune system and fewer energy reserves for defense.
   • Consequence: It becomes highly vulnerable to opportunistic insect pests (e.g., borers) and diseases that might not affect a healthy, established tree, further compounding the risk.
5. Structural Damage:
   • Mechanism: During digging, lifting, and transport, the trunk, bark, and remaining root ball can be damaged if not handled meticulously.
   • Consequence: These wounds create entry points for disease and can compromise the tree's long-term structural integrity.
6. Cost and Logistics:
   • The specialized equipment, labor, and time involved make large tree relocation extremely expensive, often thousands of dollars. Logistics can be complex.
7. Post-Transplant Care:
   • The tree requires several years of intensive and diligent post-transplant care (watering, monitoring, pruning) to fully re-establish.

Given these formidable risks, moving fully grown trees is only undertaken when the value of the tree (sentimental, historical, aesthetic, ecological) justifies the significant investment and uncertainty.

What Types of Trees are Best for Relocation?

The types of trees best for relocation are typically younger, smaller specimens with fibrous root systems, certain deciduous trees, and those that tolerate transplant shock well. The success rate decreases dramatically with tree size and age.

• Younger, Smaller Trees: These are always the best candidates. Their root systems are more compact and easier to extract, and they recover from root loss more quickly.
• Deciduous Trees:
  • Why: Generally tolerate transplant shock better than evergreens because they shed their leaves in fall, reducing transpiration and water loss during dormancy. This allows them to focus energy on root establishment during the dormant season.
  • Best Time: Best moved in late fall (after leaf drop) or early spring (before bud break) when they are dormant.
  • Examples: Maples (e.g., Norway Maple, Red Maple), Elms, Lindens, Crabapples, Honeylocusts.
• Fibrous Root Systems: Trees that naturally produce a dense, shallow, fibrous root system (e.g., many maples, elms) are generally easier to move successfully than those with deep taproots (e.g., oaks, hickories, walnuts, many pines).
• Trees that Tolerate Transplant Shock: Some species are simply more resilient.

Trees Least Suited for Relocation (High Risk):

• Evergreen Trees (Conifers and Broadleaf Evergreens):
  • Why: They retain their needles/leaves year-round and continue to transpire in winter. If moved in fall or winter when the ground is frozen, they cannot replace lost water, leading to severe winter desiccation and often death.
  • Best Time: If evergreens must be moved, early spring (before new growth) is usually preferred, but it's still high risk.
  • Examples: Many Pines, Spruces, Fir, Magnolias (broadleaf evergreens).
• Trees with Deep Taproots: Oaks, hickories, walnuts, persimmons are challenging because damage to the central taproot can be fatal.
• Very Large, Mature Trees: The largest trees (e.g., over 8-10 inch trunk diameter) have enormous root systems, making it almost impossible to capture enough roots for survival, even with spades.

For most homeowners, focusing on smaller, deciduous trees provides the best chance of successful relocation.

What is the Role of "Root Pruning" Before Relocation?

Root pruning is a critical preparatory step for successfully relocating larger trees, especially those that will be moved manually or with a small tree spade. It involves selectively cutting roots months or a year in advance to encourage the growth of a dense, compact root ball that is better suited for transplant.

• Mechanism: When a tree's roots are pruned, it stimulates the production of numerous new, fine feeder roots closer to the trunk. These are the most critical roots for water and nutrient absorption.
• Benefits for Relocation:
  1. Develops a Denser Root Ball: By encouraging new feeder roots within a confined area, root pruning essentially "conditions" the tree to develop a more compact and resilient root ball. This means that when the tree is finally dug, a higher percentage of the vital feeder roots within the extracted soil ball will be retained.
  2. Reduces Transplant Shock: A tree that has been root pruned months in advance is better prepared for the inevitable root loss during the actual transplant. Its root system is more efficient within the smaller mass, leading to less severe transplant shock.
  3. Improved Water/Nutrient Uptake: With more active feeder roots in the root ball, the tree is better able to absorb water and nutrients immediately after transplanting, crucial for its survival.
• Process of Root Pruning:
  1. Timing: Typically done 6-12 months before the actual transplant (e.g., late fall for a fall move the next year, or early spring for an early spring move the next year).
  2. Method: Dig a narrow trench around the tree at the desired diameter of the future root ball (e.g., 10-12 inches / 25-30 cm diameter for every inch of trunk diameter). Use a sharp shovel or specialized root pruning spade to cut through the roots in this trench.
  3. Backfill: Immediately backfill the trench with native soil or compost to encourage new root growth within the pruned area.
  4. Half-Circle (Optional): For very large or sensitive trees, some arborists will root prune only half the circumference in one year, and the other half the next year, transplanting in the third year.
• Tools: Sharp shovel, root pruning spade, pruning saw (for larger roots).

Root pruning is a proactive, time-consuming step that significantly improves the success rate of moving larger trees, by conditioning the tree's root system for the trauma of transplant.

What is the Best Time of Year to Move Fully Grown Trees?

The best time of year to move fully grown trees is during their dormant period, specifically in late fall (after leaf drop) or very early spring (before bud break), as this minimizes physiological stress and maximizes the chances of successful root establishment.

For Deciduous Trees (Ideal Time):

• Late Fall (Most Recommended):
  • Timing: After the leaves have dropped (signaling dormancy) but before the ground freezes solid.
  • Why: The tree has ceased active top growth and has moved its energy reserves to its roots. The absence of leaves means no water loss through transpiration, significantly reducing transplant shock. The soil is still relatively warm, allowing roots to begin healing and growing before deep freezing.
  • Benefit: Allows the tree to establish a new root system throughout the winter dormancy, giving it a head start for vigorous growth in spring.
• Very Early Spring:
  • Timing: Before new buds swell or leaves emerge, while the tree is still dormant and the ground is workable.
  • Why: Similar benefits to fall planting (dormancy, no leaves for transpiration).
  • Considerations: Can be more challenging due to unpredictable spring weather (wet soil, late frosts), and a shorter window for root growth before summer heat.

For Evergreen Trees (More Risky, Specific Timing):

• Early Fall (Slightly earlier than deciduous):
  • Timing: Late August to late September.
  • Why: This allows a longer period (6-8 weeks) for root establishment before the ground freezes solid, crucial for evergreens which continue to transpire in winter.
• Early Spring:
  • Timing: Before new growth flushes out.
  • Why: Minimizes stress during new growth phase.
• Considerations: Evergreens are always more challenging to move because they never truly go dormant (they always have leaves) and continue to lose water through transpiration in winter. Winter watering is absolutely critical for transplanted evergreens.

Always avoid moving trees during their active growth periods (late spring, summer) or during very hot, dry, or freezing weather, as these conditions significantly increase transplant shock and risk of death.

What Specialized Equipment is Used to Move Fully Grown Trees?

Moving fully grown trees invariably requires specialized heavy equipment that can extract, transport, and replant an enormous root ball. This machinery is designed to minimize root disturbance and handle immense weight.

1. Tree Spade:
   • Description: This is the most common piece of equipment for moving large trees. It consists of large, hydraulic spades (often 3 or 4) mounted on a truck or tractor. The spades are driven into the ground around the tree, forming a cone-shaped root ball.
   • How it Works: The spades are retracted, lifting the entire tree (root ball and trunk) out of the ground. The tree is then transported (often still held by the spades) to the new location and replanted.
   • Size: Tree spades come in various sizes, capable of moving trees with trunk diameters ranging from a few inches to over 10-12 inches (25-30 cm). The larger the spade, the larger the root ball it can capture.
   • Benefits: Highly efficient for excavating and moving large root balls, minimizing manual labor.
2. Cranes and Flatbed Trucks:
   • Description: For exceptionally large trees or trees in difficult-to-access locations, a crane might be used to lift a hand-dug root ball (which would be secured in a wire basket and burlapped – B&B) onto a flatbed truck for transport.
   • Benefits: Can handle trees too large for a tree spade. Allows for custom root ball shapes.
3. Excavators/Backhoes:
   • Description: Used for digging the receiving hole at the new location, especially for large trees.
   • Benefits: Efficiently prepares the new planting site.
4. Skid Steers/Forklifts:
   • Description: For moving smaller trees (balled and burlapped) around a site or loading onto smaller trailers.
5. Specialized Tree Dolly/Trailers:
   • Description: Heavy-duty dollies or trailers designed to safely transport large, heavy balled and burlapped trees.

Professional tree moving companies own and operate this specialized equipment. Attempting to move a fully grown tree without it is extremely dangerous and almost guaranteed to fail.

What is the Critical Post-Transplant Care for Large Trees?

Critical post-transplant care for large trees is intensive, consistent, and extends for several years, focusing on promoting root establishment and minimizing the severe transplant shock that inevitably follows relocation. This diligent aftercare is crucial for survival.

1. Consistent and Deep Watering (Most Important):
   • Why: Newly transplanted large trees have lost most of their feeder roots and cannot absorb water efficiently. They are highly susceptible to dehydration.
   • How: Water deeply and regularly, ensuring the entire new root ball and surrounding soil is kept consistently moist (but never soggy). This often means watering several times a week, especially in the first year, and weekly during dry spells for 2-3 years. Use a soil moisture meter to check deep moisture.
   • Methods: Use a slow trickle from a hose, a tree watering bag, or drip irrigation.
2. Mulching:
   • Why: A 2-4 inch (5-10 cm) layer of organic mulch conserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, and reduces root competition.
   • How: Apply mulch around the base of the tree, extending out to the drip line. Keep mulch 2-3 inches away from the trunk.
3. Staking (Only if Necessary):
   • Why: Only stake if the tree is unstable in strong winds. Over-staking prevents trunk strengthening.
   • How: Use two stakes with broad, flexible ties that allow for some trunk movement. Remove stakes after 1-2 years once the tree is anchored.
4. No Fertilizing (Initial Phase):
   • Why: Fertilizing in the first year can burn tender new roots and encourages top growth (which the root system can't support) over root establishment.
   • How: Rely on the organic matter in your amended soil. Begin light fertilization (low N, higher P for roots) after the first year, if needed.
5. Protection from Pests and Diseases:
   • Why: Stressed trees are highly vulnerable.
   • How: Monitor closely. Address any pest infestations or disease symptoms promptly with appropriate organic treatments. Ensure good air circulation.
6. Pruning (Minimal):
   • Why: Avoid heavy pruning immediately after transplant. The tree needs all its foliage to produce energy.
   • How: Only remove dead, broken, or diseased branches. Avoid extensive structural pruning for the first 2-3 years.
7. Patience and Long-Term Commitment:
   • Why: Full establishment can take 3-5 years or more (one year per inch of trunk diameter).
   • How: Continue diligent watering and monitoring throughout this period.

This intensive post-transplant care is paramount for the large tree's survival and successful integration into its new landscape.

What is the Lifespan of a Fully Grown Tree After Relocation?

The lifespan of a fully grown tree after relocation is highly variable and generally shorter than if it had remained undisturbed in its original site, but it can still be decades if the transplant is successful and optimal aftercare is provided. The initial stress significantly impacts its long-term vitality.

• Reduced Initial Lifespan Expectancy: Even a successful transplant inherently reduces the tree's overall potential lifespan compared to a tree that never experiences transplant shock. The trauma to its root system and the subsequent stress take a toll.
• Fragile First 3-5 Years: The period immediately following transplant (3-5 years) is the most critical. If the tree survives this phase and shows strong signs of recovery, its long-term prognosis improves significantly.
• Factors Influencing Lifespan:
  1. Species of Tree: As discussed, some species tolerate transplant better than others.
  2. Health Before Move: A healthy, vigorous tree prior to relocation has a much better chance.
  3. Size/Age at Transplant: Younger, smaller trees recover faster and live longer post-transplant than very large, old trees.
  4. Quality of Transplant: Meticulous root pruning, proper digging (root ball integrity), and precise planting techniques.
  5. Post-Transplant Care (Crucial): Consistent watering, appropriate mulching, and vigilant monitoring for several years are paramount. Neglect during this period almost guarantees early demise.
  6. Environmental Stress at New Site: If the new site has less favorable soil, light, or water conditions, it will further shorten the lifespan.
• "Establishment Clock Resets": While the tree itself is old, its "establishment clock" effectively resets after transplant. It behaves like a young tree for several years, putting energy into root regrowth.
• Long-Term Health: A tree that successfully recovers from transplant shock can go on to live for many more decades, providing shade, beauty, and ecological benefits. However, it may always bear some subtle signs of the stress it endured (e.g., slightly slower growth rate, initial structural imbalances).

In essence, a fully grown tree can live a long life after relocation, but it's a testament to the combined efforts of professional movers and diligent aftercare, rather than a guarantee of its original potential lifespan.