Do Houseplants Grow in Winter?
Yes, most houseplants do grow in winter, but much slower than in spring or summer. Less daylight and cooler temperatures put many indoor plants into a semi-dormant state where growth nearly stops—but with the right care, you can still see new leaves and healthy roots. This guide answers common questions about winter houseplant growth and gives you practical steps to keep your plants thriving.
Why do houseplants slow down in winter?
Houseplants are native to tropical or subtropical regions where day length stays fairly even year-round. In your home, winter brings shorter days, lower light intensity, and often cooler indoor temperatures. These changes signal the plant to conserve energy. Many species slow photosynthesis, reduce water uptake, and pause leaf production. This is natural—don't panic if your pothos or snake plant stops pushing out new shoots.
Temperature also plays a role. If your home dips below 60°F (15°C) at night, many tropical houseplants become sluggish. Drafty windows or heat vents can create temperature swings that further stress the plant. The main takeaway: reduce watering and stop fertilizing until spring, unless you actively supplement light and warmth.
Can I make my houseplants grow faster in winter?
Yes, with a few simple adjustments you can encourage winter growth. The biggest factor is light. If you live in a cloudy region or have north-facing windows, consider a full-spectrum grow light. Place it 6–12 inches above your plants and run it 12–14 hours per day. This mimics summer daylight and can prompt your pothos, philodendron, or peace lily to push out new leaves even in December.
Other factors include stable warmth and proper humidity. Most houseplants prefer temperatures between 65–75°F (18–24°C). Grouping plants together or using a humidifier can raise the ambient moisture—dry winter air often causes brown leaf tips and stunts growth. If you see new growth that is pale or leggy, that’s a sign your plant is reaching for more light. Move it closer to a window or add a grow light.
What are the best houseplants for winter growth?
Some houseplants are naturally more forgiving and can still produce new growth in winter if given basic care. Here are a few that tend to do well:
- Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) – Very adaptable; may grow slowly but rarely stops entirely.
- Snake plant (Sansevieria) – Tolerates low light and dry air; growth pauses but roots stay healthy.
- ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) – Almost indestructible; very little growth in winter, but won’t die.
- Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) – Can produce baby plants even with moderate light.
- Peace lily (Spathiphyllum) – May bloom in winter if light is decent and soil stays moist.
- Philodendron (heartleaf or Brasil) – Vigorous growers that respond well to supplemental light.
If you are a beginner, these plants give you the best chance of seeing at least a little winter growth. Avoid tropicals like calathea or ferns if you can’t provide high humidity and consistent warmth.
How much water do houseplants need in winter?
The golden rule in winter: water less often, but thoroughly. Because growth slows, the soil stays wet longer. Overwatering is the number one killer of houseplants in winter. Check the top inch of soil with your finger—if it feels dry, water slowly until it runs out the drainage hole. If it feels damp, wait a few more days.
To avoid guesswork, a moisture meter can be very helpful. Insert it into the soil and water only when the meter reads “dry” or near the dry zone. This prevents root rot and gives your plant exactly what it needs. Also, use room-temperature water—cold tap water can shock roots.
Should I fertilize houseplants in winter?
Generally, no. Most houseplants do not need fertilizer during the winter months because they are not actively growing. Applying fertilizer when growth is slow can cause salt buildup in the soil and burn the roots. If you are using a grow light and seeing fresh growth every week, you can use a very diluted liquid fertilizer once a month, but cut the recommended dose by half. For the majority of plants, it's best to pause all feeding until days get longer in late February or March.
What about humidity for houseplants in winter?
Indoor air becomes very dry when heating systems run. Many houseplants, especially tropical ones, need humidity between 40%–60%. Low humidity causes brown leaf edges, curling leaves, and encourages spider mites. You can increase humidity by:
- Grouping plants together (they create their own microclimate)
- Using a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water
- Misting leaves in the morning (avoid evening misting to prevent fungus)
- Running a small humidifier nearby
Pay extra attention to plants like ferns, calatheas, and orchids—they are humidity hogs. A simple hygrometer can tell you the exact level in the room.
How much light do houseplants need in winter?
Light is the most critical factor. Even a bright south-facing window in winter provides only about 1/3 of the summer light intensity. Most houseplants need at least 8–12 hours of indirect bright light to grow. North-facing windows usually aren’t enough for anything beyond low-light survivors like snake plants. Here’s a quick guide:
| Light Level | Houseplants That Thrive | Growth Expected in Winter |
|---|---|---|
| Low (north window, 6 ft from window) | Snake plant, ZZ plant, pothos | Very slow, may stop |
| Medium (east/west window, 3 ft) | Spider plant, peace lily, philodendron | Slow but steady with good care |
| Bright (south/west window, direct or filtered) | Succulents, cacti, ficus, hoyas | Can produce new leaves if temps warm |
If your plants are in a low-light spot, they won’t grow much—and that’s okay. Just avoid overwatering and don't expect miracles. For those wanting active winter growth, supplemental grow lights are the best investment.
Can I repot houseplants in winter?
It’s best to avoid repotting in winter unless absolutely necessary, such as when roots are circling the pot or the plant is root-bound and suffering. Repotting disturbs roots and stresses the plant, and because growth is slowed, the plant may have trouble recovering. Wait until early spring when days lengthen and the plant enters a natural growth phase. If you must repot (e.g., because of pests or serious root rot), choose a pot only one size larger and use fresh well-draining potting mix.
What are the most common winter houseplant problems?
Even with good care, you may notice issues. Here’s a quick checklist to diagnose and fix them:
- Yellow leaves – Often from overwatering; let soil dry out more between waterings.
- Brown leaf tips – Low humidity or salt buildup from fertilizer; increase humidity and flush soil occasionally.
- Leggy, pale growth – Not enough light; move closer to a window or use a grow light.
- Mold on soil surface – Too wet and poor air circulation; scrape off mold, water less, and increase airflow.
- Drooping leaves – Could be underwatering or cold draft; check soil moisture and room temperature.
- Pests like spider mites and fungus gnats – Winter’s dry air favors spider mites; gnats thrive in damp soil. For gnats, let the top 2 inches of soil dry out completely between waterings.
If you see pests, isolate the affected plant and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Catching these problems early is key.
Does moving my houseplants outside for winter help?
No—unless you live in a frost-free climate. Bringing houseplants outside when temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C) will cause cold damage, leaf drop, and can kill them. If you want to give them fresh air and more light, you can place them outdoors on mild days (above 60°F) in a sheltered spot, but bring them back inside before nightfall. Generally, it’s safer to keep your plants indoors and use a grow light to compensate for the shorter days.
How do I know if my houseplant is still alive in winter if it’s not growing?
Many plants look fine but simply stop expanding. Check the stems: if they are firm and green (or the normal color for the species), the plant is alive and just resting. Also look at roots if you can see through the drainage hole—healthy roots are white or tan, not mushy or black. Another test: gently tug on the stem. A living plant will have some resistance. If the whole plant lifts out of the pot easily and roots are rotten, it may be too late. But in most cases, a dormant plant in winter will perk up when spring returns and you resume normal care.
Can I propagate houseplants in winter?
Propagation is possible but more challenging. Cuttings root slower in winter because of lower light and cooler temperatures. If you have a warm spot (70–75°F) and a grow light, you can still root pothos, philodendron, or spider plant babies in water or moist soil. Expect roots to take 2–4 weeks instead of 1–2. For succulents and cacti, it’s best to wait until spring—they need strong light and warmth to root successfully. If you do propagate, use rooting hormone powder and keep the medium consistently damp but not soggy.
Where is the best place to put houseplants in winter?
Choose your brightest window—usually a south or west-facing one. Keep plants a few inches away from the glass so cold drafts don’t chill the leaves. Avoid placing plants near exterior doors, leaky windows, or heating vents that blow hot dry air directly on them. If you have a plant on a table near a window, check that no one accidentally opens the window and lets in freezing air. Grouping plants on a pebble tray on a windowsill can create a warmer, more humid microclimate.
Do houseplants need less light if they are dormant?
Yes and no. Dormant plants do not need as much energy, but they still need some light for minimal photosynthesis to stay alive. However, you should not drastically reduce light—instead, let natural day length be your guide. If you normally give a plant 14 hours of bright light in summer, in winter it may only get 9 hours naturally. That’s fine. The plant adjusts its metabolism. Adding a grow light can help prevent the plant from going fully dormant and might encourage some growth—but it’s not required for survival.
Remember: winter is a rest period. If your houseplant doesn’t grow much from December through February, that’s completely normal. Focus on giving stable conditions, avoiding overwatering, and providing as much light as you can. Then when spring arrives, you’ll see a burst of new leaves as your plant rewards your patience.