Do you deadhead hydrangeas in summer? - Plant Care Guide

Yes, you can deadhead hydrangeas in summer, and for many varieties, it's a beneficial practice. Deadheading involves removing spent or faded blooms, which can encourage more flowers, improve the plant's appearance, and help redirect energy towards growth rather than seed production. However, the best time and method for deadheading depend significantly on the type of hydrangea you are growing.

What Exactly Does Deadheading Mean for Hydrangeas?

Deadheading refers to the horticultural practice of removing spent or faded flowers from a plant. For hydrangeas, this means carefully snipping off the flower heads once their vibrant color has faded and they start to look brown, dry, or otherwise less appealing. The primary goals of deadheading hydrangeas are often to enhance the plant's aesthetic appeal, encourage further blooming, and promote overall plant health by redirecting energy.

What are the Benefits of Deadheading Hydrangeas in Summer?

Deadheading hydrangeas in summer offers several advantages, especially for continuous blooming varieties. By removing the old flowers, you signal to the plant that it needs to produce more blooms. This can lead to a more prolific and visually appealing display throughout the growing season.

Here are the key benefits:

• Encourages More Blooms: For re-blooming hydrangeas like some Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf) and Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle) varieties, deadheading can stimulate the production of new flower buds. The plant won't put energy into making seeds, but instead into more flowers.
• Improves Appearance: Faded, brown, or crispy flower heads can detract from the beauty of your hydrangea. Removing them instantly tidies up the plant, making it look fresher and more vibrant.
• Redirets Plant Energy: When a hydrangea's flowers are left on the plant, they eventually go to seed. Creating seeds uses up a lot of the plant's energy. By deadheading, you redirect this energy towards developing new leaves, stronger stems, or more flowers.
• Reduces Disease Risk: While not a primary factor, removing decaying flowers can slightly reduce the risk of certain fungal diseases that thrive on dead plant material, especially in humid conditions.
• Prevents Seed Production: If you don't want your hydrangea to self-seed (which is rare for many cultivated varieties but can happen), deadheading effectively prevents seed formation.

Does Deadheading Vary by Hydrangea Type?

Absolutely, deadheading practices vary significantly depending on the hydrangea type. This is because different hydrangeas bloom on either old wood (growth from the previous year) or new wood (growth from the current year). Understanding this difference is crucial to avoid accidentally cutting off next year's blooms.

Let's look at the main types:

• Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla): These are the classic Mophead and Lacecap varieties, known for their large, colorful blooms.
  • Old Wood Bloomers: Many traditional H. macrophylla varieties bloom only on old wood. Deadheading these types in summer is generally safe, as it won't affect next year's flower buds, which form after the current season's growth.
  • Re-blooming/Everblooming Varieties: Some newer H. macrophylla cultivars, like 'Endless Summer' or 'Twist-n-Shout', are re-bloomers. They produce flowers on both old and new wood. Deadheading in summer is highly recommended for these to encourage a continuous flush of new blooms until fall.
• Panicle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata): Examples include 'Limelight', 'Vanilla Strawberry', and 'Quick Fire'. These are known for their cone-shaped flowers.
  • New Wood Bloomers: All H. paniculata varieties bloom on new wood. This means the flower buds form on the growth that develops in the current season. Deadheading in summer is perfectly fine and often encouraged to promote more blooms and maintain a tidy appearance.
• Smooth Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens): The most famous is 'Annabelle'. These have large, round, often white flowers.
  • New Wood Bloomers: Like panicle hydrangeas, smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood. Deadheading in summer is beneficial for these as well, encouraging the plant to produce more flowers.
• Oakleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia): Recognized by their oak-shaped leaves and pyramidal flower clusters.
  • Old Wood Bloomers: Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood. While deadheading is generally safe in summer, many gardeners choose to leave the faded flowers on these plants because they often dry attractively and provide winter interest. Heavy pruning or cutting into green stems in late summer or fall can remove next year's buds.
• Climbing Hydrangeas (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris): These are vigorous climbers.
  • Old Wood Bloomers: Climbing hydrangeas bloom on old wood. Deadheading isn't usually a major concern for these as their flowers are smaller and less prominent. Pruning is more about managing growth.

When in doubt about your specific hydrangea, it's always best to check its tag or research its type to understand its blooming habit before extensive pruning or deadheading.

When is the Best Time to Deadhead Hydrangeas in Summer?

The best time to deadhead hydrangeas in summer is as soon as the individual flower heads begin to fade, lose their vibrant color, and start to look dry or brown. For most varieties, this window typically opens from late June through August, depending on your climate and when your specific hydrangea variety begins its bloom cycle.

For re-blooming Bigleaf Hydrangeas (H. macrophylla that bloom on old and new wood) and Panicle Hydrangeas (H. paniculata), you can continue to deadhead throughout the summer as new flushes of blooms appear and then fade. This continuous removal encourages the plant to put out even more flowers, extending your display well into the fall.

For Smooth Hydrangeas (H. arborescens), deadhead as flowers fade to maintain tidiness and encourage the plant to produce new blooms on the current season's growth.

For old wood bloomers like traditional Bigleaf and Oakleaf Hydrangeas, deadheading in summer should be done carefully. While removing the spent flowers won't harm next year's buds, avoid cutting into the healthy green stems too deeply, especially later in the summer. You want to give the plant time to set new buds for the following year. It's generally safest to stop deadheading old wood bloomers by late August or early September at the latest, to allow them to focus their energy on forming those crucial next year's buds.

Many gardeners also choose to leave the faded flowers on Oakleaf Hydrangeas and some Panicle Hydrangeas through fall and winter because they can provide beautiful winter interest. The dried flower heads can look quite sculptural, especially when covered in frost or snow. So, while you can deadhead them, it's not always necessary or desired for aesthetic reasons.

How Do You Properly Deadhead Hydrangeas?

Properly deadheading hydrangeas is a simple process that requires clean tools and a basic understanding of where to make the cut. The goal is to remove the spent flower head without harming the developing buds or overall plant structure.

Here's a step-by-step guide:

1. Gather Your Tools: You'll need a sharp pair of pruning shears or hand pruners. Make sure they are clean to prevent the spread of diseases. You can sterilize them with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution. A good pair of gardening pruners will make clean cuts.
2. Identify Spent Blooms: Look for flowers that have lost their color, turned brown, green, or become papery and dry.
3. Locate the Ideal Cut Point:
   • Follow the Stem Down: Trace the stem of the faded flower head downwards.
   • Find a Leaf Node or New Bud: You will typically find a set of leaves or a small, swelling bud just below the spent flower. This is where the plant will put out new growth.
   • Make the Cut: Cut the stem just above this leaf node or new bud. Aim for a spot where the stem is still green and healthy.
   • Avoid Cutting Too Deeply: Do not cut too far down into the plant, especially if you have an old wood bloomer. For these types, simply remove the flower head and a minimal amount of stem. For new wood bloomers and re-bloomers, you can afford to cut a bit lower if needed to shape the plant or remove a weak stem, as new flowers will form on current year's growth.
4. Dispose of Cuttings: Remove the deadheaded flowers from around the plant to prevent any potential disease issues. You can add them to your compost pile if they are disease-free.

Table: Deadheading Cut Points by Hydrangea Type

Should You Deadhead All Hydrangeas?

No, you do not necessarily need to deadhead all hydrangeas, and for some varieties, it's entirely optional or even best to avoid. The decision largely depends on the specific hydrangea type, your personal aesthetic preferences, and whether you prioritize continuous blooms or winter interest.

Here's a breakdown:

• Re-blooming Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) and Panicle (H. paniculata) Hydrangeas:
  • Yes, highly recommended. Deadheading these types is very beneficial as it encourages the production of more flowers throughout the summer and into the fall. If you want the most blooms, deadhead regularly as flowers fade.
• Smooth (H. arborescens) Hydrangeas (e.g., 'Annabelle'):
  • Yes, often recommended. Deadheading helps to tidy up the plant and can encourage a more continuous bloom. It also keeps the plant looking fresh.
• Traditional Old Wood Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) Hydrangeas:
  • Optional. You can deadhead to improve appearance, but it won't necessarily stimulate more blooms since their main flush of flowers comes from old wood. It's safe to do as long as you only remove the spent flower head and don't cut deeply into the stem. Stop by late summer to avoid removing next year's buds.
• Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) Hydrangeas:
  • Optional, often not done. Many gardeners choose not to deadhead oakleaf hydrangeas because their spent flowers often dry on the plant beautifully. These dried blooms, along with the foliage that turns rich burgundy in the fall, provide significant winter interest. Deadheading them for aesthetic reasons is fine, but it's not crucial for more blooms, as they bloom on old wood.
• Climbing Hydrangeas (H. anomala petiolaris):
  • Generally not necessary. Their flowers are smaller and less prominent. Pruning for shape and size control is usually a bigger priority than deadheading.

Ultimately, if you prefer a tidy look and want to encourage the maximum number of flowers from varieties that produce on new wood or re-bloom, then deadhead. If you appreciate the look of dried flower heads in the landscape, particularly through the colder months, then leaving them on (especially for panicle and oakleaf types) is a perfectly valid choice.

Does Deadheading Hydrangeas Hurt the Plant?

When done correctly, deadheading hydrangeas does not hurt the plant; in fact, it's often beneficial. The plant is designed to recover from the removal of spent flowers. However, improper deadheading, such as cutting into the wrong part of the stem or at the wrong time of year for certain varieties, can reduce future blooms or stress the plant.

Here's why correct deadheading is generally harmless:

• Natural Process: Removing faded flowers mimics how plants naturally shed old growth. It's a minor "wound" that the plant quickly heals.
• Redirects Energy: By removing the energy sink of developing seeds, you free up the plant's resources to focus on vegetative growth, root development, or producing more flowers (for re-blooming types).
• Prevents Seed Production: Preventing seed formation is a primary reason to deadhead, especially if you are not interested in harvesting seeds.

Potential pitfalls to avoid:

• Cutting into "Old Wood" on Old Wood Bloomers Late in the Season: For hydrangeas that bloom exclusively on old wood (like traditional Hydrangea macrophylla or Hydrangea quercifolia), cutting too far down the stem in late summer or fall can remove the dormant flower buds that have already formed for next year's bloom. This will lead to fewer flowers the following season.
• Using Dull or Dirty Tools: Dull pruners can tear stems, leaving jagged wounds that are harder for the plant to heal and more susceptible to disease. Dirty tools can transfer pathogens from one plant to another. Always use sharp, clean pruning shears.
• Excessive Pruning (Beyond Deadheading): Deadheading is just removing the flower head. If you combine deadheading with heavy pruning, especially at the wrong time of year for your hydrangea type, you could inadvertently remove many future flower buds or stress the plant.

Stick to removing just the faded flower heads, making clean cuts above a leaf node or new bud, and you'll be helping your hydrangeas rather than harming them.

Are There Any Reasons Not to Deadhead Hydrangeas in Summer?

Yes, there are a few valid reasons not to deadhead hydrangeas in summer, even for varieties where it's generally recommended. These reasons often revolve around aesthetic choices, protecting future blooms, or preparing the plant for winter.

Here are the primary considerations:

• Winter Interest: For many Panicle Hydrangeas (H. paniculata) like 'Limelight' and Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia), the faded flowers dry beautifully on the plant. They can turn attractive shades of tan, brown, or even pink, providing structural interest in the garden throughout the fall and winter, especially when dusted with snow or frost. Leaving these on can add a lovely dimension to your cold-weather landscape.
• Protecting Next Year's Blooms (for Old Wood Bloomers): If you have an old wood blooming hydrangea (e.g., traditional Hydrangea macrophylla or H. quercifolia) and you inadvertently cut too far down the stem when deadheading later in the summer, you could be removing the embryonic flower buds that have already formed for the following year's bloom. To avoid this risk, some gardeners prefer to simply leave the spent flowers on these types after mid-summer.
• Color Transitions: Some hydrangea varieties, particularly certain panicle hydrangeas, undergo beautiful color transformations as their flowers age. They might start white, turn lime green, then blush pink, and finally deepen to a rich reddish-pink or burgundy. If you enjoy observing these seasonal color changes, you might choose to leave the flowers on the plant for longer, even if they're technically "spent."
• Plant Vigor/Maturity: For very young or newly planted hydrangeas, some gardeners prefer to let the plant put all its energy into establishing a strong root system and overall growth, rather than continually producing new blooms. In such cases, deadheading might be skipped to conserve energy.
• Personal Preference: Ultimately, gardening is also about what brings you joy. If you don't mind the look of faded flowers or prefer a more "natural" look, there's no strict rule forcing you to deadhead.

While deadheading often provides benefits, these considerations show that it's not a one-size-fits-all solution for every hydrangea or every gardener.

Does Deadheading Help Hydrangeas Grow Bigger Flowers?

Deadheading hydrangeas does not directly make individual flowers grow bigger. Instead, its primary benefit is often related to the number of flowers and the overall vigor of the plant. By removing faded blooms, you redirect the plant's energy from seed production back into vegetative growth and, for re-blooming types, the development of new flower buds.

Here's how it influences flowering:

• More Flowers (for Re-bloomers): For re-blooming hydrangeas and those that bloom on new wood (like H. paniculata and H. arborescens), deadheading encourages the plant to produce a second or even third flush of blooms. This means you get a longer and more abundant flowering season, though the individual size of these later blooms might be slightly smaller than the initial flush due to the plant expending more energy.
• Stronger Stems/Plant Vigor: By preventing seed formation, the plant can channel its energy into strengthening its existing stems and developing new, healthy foliage. A more vigorous plant can better support its flowers.
• Maintained Bloom Size (for Old Wood Bloomers): For old wood blooming hydrangeas, deadheading primarily tidies up the plant. It doesn't typically lead to a second flush of blooms, but it ensures the plant's energy isn't wasted on seed production, allowing it to focus on establishing strong buds for the following year, which contributes to consistent flower size year after year.

If you want to encourage bigger flowers on any hydrangea type, focus on providing optimal growing conditions:

• Proper Watering: Consistent moisture, especially during dry spells and bloom development. A soil moisture meter can help here.
• Adequate Sunlight: The right amount of sun for your specific variety.
• Good Soil: Rich, well-draining soil with appropriate pH. Using a soil test kit can help identify pH and nutrient needs.
• Balanced Fertilization: A light application of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring, if needed. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can promote leafy growth over flowers. Look for a hydrangea fertilizer that is balanced for flowering plants.
• Appropriate Pruning: Beyond deadheading, correct structural pruning (done at the right time for your hydrangea type) can promote strong framework for future blooms.

So, while deadheading won't magically supersize your flowers, it is a key practice for maintaining plant health and maximizing the number of beautiful blooms throughout the season for many hydrangea varieties.

What is the Difference Between Deadheading and Pruning Hydrangeas?

While both deadheading and pruning hydrangeas involve cutting parts of the plant, they are distinct practices with different goals and timings. Understanding this difference is crucial for effective hydrangea care.

Deadheading:

• Purpose: To remove spent or faded flowers. The primary goals are to improve the plant's appearance, encourage more blooms (for re-blooming types), and redirect plant energy away from seed production.
• Timing: Primarily done in summer as flowers fade.
• Technique: Involves making shallow cuts just below the spent flower head, usually above the first set of healthy leaves or a new bud.
• Impact: A minor intervention that generally doesn't affect the overall size or shape of the plant significantly. It targets individual flowers.
• Tools: Typically done with hand pruners or sharp snips.

Pruning:

• Purpose: To shape the plant, control its size, remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood, improve air circulation, rejuvenate old plants, or encourage stronger growth.
• Timing: Varies greatly by hydrangea type, typically late winter/early spring for new wood bloomers, or immediately after flowering (late summer) for old wood bloomers to avoid cutting off next year's buds.
• Technique: Involves making more substantial cuts, often removing entire branches or significant portions of stems, sometimes down to the ground. It requires a deeper understanding of the plant's growth habit.
• Impact: A major intervention that can significantly alter the plant's size, shape, and future flowering. It targets the plant's structure.
• Tools: May require hand pruners, loppers for thicker branches, or even a pruning saw for very large stems.

Table: Deadheading vs. Pruning Hydrangeas

In essence, deadheading is a light form of maintenance focused on flowers, while pruning is a more structural and significant intervention focused on the plant as a whole. Both are important for healthy hydrangeas but are performed for different reasons and at different times.

How Can I Encourage More Hydrangea Blooms Throughout Summer?

Encouraging more hydrangea blooms throughout summer, especially for re-blooming varieties, involves a combination of good cultural practices and timely care. It's about providing the plant with the best possible conditions to thrive and continually produce flowers.

Here's how you can maximize your hydrangea's bloom potential:

1. Deadhead Regularly (for Re-bloomers & New Wood Bloomers): As discussed, this is one of the most effective ways to stimulate repeat blooming. Remove spent flowers promptly throughout summer.
2. Ensure Adequate Water: Hydrangeas are thirsty plants, especially when actively blooming and during dry spells. Consistent moisture is crucial.
   • Water deeply and regularly, especially in the mornings, allowing the topsoil to dry out slightly between waterings.
   • Avoid overhead watering which can encourage fungal issues on leaves.
   • Consider a soaker hose or drip irrigation system for efficient watering. Using a soil moisture meter can help you know exactly when to water.
3. Provide the Right Sunlight: Most hydrangeas prefer morning sun and afternoon shade.
   • Too much intense afternoon sun can scorch leaves and cause flowers to fade quickly.
   • Too little sun can lead to fewer blooms. Aim for 4-6 hours of morning sun.
4. Fertilize Appropriately: Hydrangeas are not heavy feeders, but a balanced approach can boost blooms.
   • Apply a slow-release, balanced granular fertilizer in early spring, once new growth begins.
   • For re-bloomers, a light liquid feed in mid-summer (at half strength) after the first flush of blooms can encourage the next round.
   • Look for a fertilizer for flowering shrubs with a slightly higher phosphorus content, which supports flowering.
   • Avoid over-fertilizing, especially with high-nitrogen fertilizers, as this promotes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
5. Maintain Healthy Soil:
   • Rich, well-draining soil is essential. Amend heavy clay soils with organic matter like compost.
   • Ensure the soil pH is appropriate for your hydrangea type, especially if you want to influence bloom color for bigleaf varieties.
6. Apply Mulch: A 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (like shredded bark or compost) around the base of the plant helps retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds. Keep mulch a few inches away from the stems.
7. Manage Pests and Diseases: Healthy plants are better bloomers. Regularly inspect your hydrangeas for signs of pests or diseases and address them promptly.
8. Avoid Late Season Pruning (for Old Wood Bloomers): For hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, avoid any significant pruning after late summer or early fall. This is when they set their buds for the following year, and late pruning would remove them.

By consistently applying these practices, you can significantly enhance your hydrangea's ability to produce a continuous and abundant display of beautiful flowers throughout the summer months.