Does Cherry Laurel Grow in Winter? - Plant Care Guide

No, cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) does not actively grow in winter in most temperate climates where it is cultivated. As an evergreen shrub, it retains its leaves year-round, providing winter interest, but its growth processes (new shoot and leaf development) largely slow down or cease during the colder months. Active growth typically resumes in spring when temperatures rise and daylight hours lengthen.

What is a Cherry Laurel Plant?

A Cherry Laurel plant (Prunus laurocerasus) is a popular, fast-growing evergreen shrub or small tree widely cultivated in temperate climates for its dense, glossy foliage and versatility in landscaping. Despite its common name, it's not a true laurel (like Bay Laurel), but a member of the rose family (Rosaceae) and closely related to cherries, plums, and peaches (Prunus genus).

Here are the main characteristics of a Cherry Laurel plant:

• Growth Habit:
  • Typically grows as a large, dense, multi-stemmed evergreen shrub, reaching 10-20 feet (3-6 meters) tall and wide, but can be trained into a small tree.
  • Known for its fast growth rate, making it popular for hedges and screens.
  • Forms a thick, upright, spreading canopy.
• Foliage:
  • Leaves are dark green, glossy, leathery, and oblong or ovate in shape. They resemble bay leaves, contributing to its common name.
  • They are evergreen, providing year-round visual interest and privacy.
• Flowers:
  • Produces upright clusters of small, fragrant, creamy-white flowers in spring (typically April-May).
  • The flowers appear on spikes (racemes) and are attractive to pollinators.
• Fruit (Berries/Drupes):
  • After flowering, small, cherry-like berries (technically drupes) appear. They ripen from green to red, and then mature to a glossy black in late summer.
  • Toxic: These berries are mildly poisonous to humans if ingested and should not be eaten. They are a food source for birds.
• Bark:
  • Smooth, dark gray bark, becoming somewhat furrowed with age.
• Hardiness:
  • Generally hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-8, though some cultivars extend to Zone 5 or 9. Its hardiness can vary.
• Toxicity:
  • All parts of the plant, especially the leaves and seeds within the berries, contain cyanogenic glycosides, which release hydrogen cyanide when ingested or crushed. This makes them toxic to humans and pets.
• Adaptability:
  • Tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, including clay and urban pollution, and grows in full sun to partial shade.

Its dense, evergreen nature and fast growth make Cherry Laurel a popular choice for hedges, screens, and foundation plantings, but its toxicity and potential for invasiveness in some regions warrant careful consideration.

What Does "Active Growth" Mean for an Evergreen Plant in Winter?

For an evergreen plant like Cherry Laurel, "active growth" in winter refers to the periods when the plant is actively producing new shoots, leaves, and increasing its overall size, driven by cell division and expansion. In most temperate climates, true active growth largely ceases or is extremely minimal during the winter months, even though the plant retains its foliage.

Here's a breakdown of what active growth means for evergreens in winter:

• No New Foliage/Shoot Production: During winter, especially in USDA Zones 6-8 where Cherry Laurel is hardy, the plant's metabolism slows down significantly. It typically does not produce new leaves, stems, or flowers. This is a period of dormancy, much like deciduous trees, but without leaf drop.
• Photosynthesis Continues (but at a reduced rate): As an evergreen, Cherry Laurel's leaves remain on the plant, and they continue to perform photosynthesis when temperatures are above freezing and sunlight is available. This allows the plant to produce some energy, but at a much slower rate than in warmer months.
  • This energy is used for basic maintenance and survival, not for rapid new growth.
• Root Activity (Limited): Roots can continue to grow slowly as long as the soil is not frozen. However, without active top growth, this root activity is minimal and focused on maintenance.
• Energy Storage: The plant is primarily focused on conserving energy and storing carbohydrates in its roots and woody tissues, preparing for the burst of active growth that will come in spring.
• Hardening Off: Before winter, the plant undergoes a process of "hardening off," where it converts starches to sugars (acting as an antifreeze) and reduces the water content in its cells, increasing its cold tolerance.
• Visible Dormancy: While you don't see bare branches, a dormant evergreen plant will show:
  • No new bud swelling.
  • No new leaf emergence.
  • A pause in overall size increase.

So, while evergreens provide year-round greenery, their active growth (the visible expansion and development) occurs during the warmer seasons, not in winter.

What Factors Slow Down Cherry Laurel Growth in Winter?

Several interconnected environmental factors significantly slow down or completely halt Cherry Laurel's growth in winter, even though it's an evergreen. These factors are common to temperate climates and trigger the plant's natural dormancy.

Here are the primary factors that slow down Cherry Laurel growth in winter:

1. Low Temperatures:
   • Metabolic Slowdown: Cold temperatures are the most critical factor. As temperatures drop below approximately 50°F (10°C), the biochemical processes (like photosynthesis and enzyme activity) within the plant slow down considerably.
   • Freezing Inhibition: Temperatures at or below freezing cause water to freeze in plant tissues, which can damage cells. The plant reduces its activity to prevent this and protect its cellular structure.
   • Impact: New cell division and expansion (i.e., new growth) essentially cease.
2. Shorter Daylight Hours (Photoperiod):
   • Signal for Dormancy: The decreasing duration of daylight hours in autumn acts as a strong environmental cue, signaling to the plant that winter is approaching and it's time to prepare for dormancy.
   • Impact: This photoperiodic signal triggers hormonal changes that reduce growth.
3. Reduced Light Intensity:
   • Even during daylight hours, the sun's angle is lower in winter, and daylight is often filtered by clouds, leading to reduced light intensity.
   • Impact: Less intense light means less energy for photosynthesis, further contributing to a slowdown in growth.
4. Frozen Soil (Reduced Water Uptake):
   • If the ground freezes solid, the plant's roots are unable to absorb water, even if the air temperature is above freezing. This can lead to winter desiccation (drying out) and further stress the plant, forcing it into deeper dormancy.
   • Impact: Without water uptake, growth is impossible.
5. Lower Humidity:
   • Winter air can be very dry, particularly with heating indoors or cold, dry winds outdoors.
   • Impact: Plants may conserve moisture by reducing transpiration, which is linked to a reduction in growth.

All these factors combine to trigger a natural dormancy period in Cherry Laurel, during which its focus shifts from active growth to survival and energy conservation, despite retaining its evergreen foliage.

When Does Cherry Laurel Start Active Growth?

Cherry Laurel typically starts its most significant period of active growth in spring, usually in March and April, once consistently warmer temperatures return and daylight hours lengthen. This marks the end of its winter dormancy and the beginning of its vigorous growth cycle.

Here's a breakdown of its active growth cycle:

• Early Spring (March-April):
  • As soil temperatures rise and the days get longer, the plant receives the environmental cues to break dormancy.
  • This is when you'll see a flush of new, bright green leaves and shoots emerging. These new leaves are often lighter in color initially before darkening to their mature glossy green.
  • Flower buds that formed the previous fall will begin to swell and prepare for bloom.
• Late Spring to Early Summer (April-June):
  • This is often the period of most vigorous growth. The plant will put on significant new height and width, and its flowers will emerge (typically April-May).
  • The plant is actively performing photosynthesis, producing energy to fuel its expansion.
• Mid-Summer (July-August):
  • Growth may slow down slightly during the hottest, driest parts of summer as the plant conserves energy or faces potential drought stress. However, some continuous, though slower, growth may occur if conditions remain favorable.
• Late Summer to Fall (August-October):
  • As temperatures begin to cool and daylight hours shorten, the plant's growth will gradually slow down.
  • It will focus on hardening off its new growth for winter and storing energy in its roots.
• Winter (November-February):
  • Enters its dormant period, with very little to no visible new growth.

So, the burst of energy and expansion you associate with a "growing" plant for Cherry Laurel is primarily a spring and early summer phenomenon, triggered by increasing warmth and light.

How Can You Protect Cherry Laurel from Winter Damage?

While Cherry Laurel is generally hardy, severe or prolonged cold, dry winter winds, and fluctuating temperatures can still cause winter damage. Proactively protecting your plants, especially young or newly planted ones, can ensure they survive the cold months unscathed.

Here's how you can protect Cherry Laurel from winter damage:

1. Ensure Adequate Watering in Fall:
   • Method: Water deeply and thoroughly in late fall (before the ground freezes) to ensure the soil is moist.
   • Why: Well-hydrated plants are more resilient to winter desiccation (drying out from cold, dry winds when roots can't absorb water from frozen soil).
2. Apply a Thick Layer of Mulch:
   • Method: Apply a 2-4 inch (5-10 cm) layer of organic mulch (e.g., wood chips, shredded bark, straw) around the base of the plant in late fall.
   • Why: Mulch insulates the soil, helping to maintain a more consistent soil temperature and preventing damaging freeze-thaw cycles that can heave shallow roots. It also helps retain soil moisture.
3. Protect from Winter Sun and Wind:
   • Method (for exposed plants): Wrap the plant with burlap or use a temporary windbreak (e.g., stakes and burlap) on the windward side. You can also spray an anti-desiccant product (following label instructions) on leaves, though efficacy varies.
   • Why: Cold, dry winter winds can strip moisture from evergreen leaves, leading to winter burn (browning of foliage). Intense winter sun can also exacerbate this.
4. Avoid Late-Season Fertilization:
   • Method: Do not fertilize Cherry Laurel in late summer or fall.
   • Why: Fertilizing encourages new, tender growth that won't have time to harden off before winter, making it extremely susceptible to frost damage.
5. Plant in a Protected Location:
   • Method: When initially planting, choose a site that offers some natural protection from harsh winter winds and intense afternoon sun (e.g., on the east side of a building or near a fence).
   • Why: This reduces exposure to the most damaging winter elements.
6. Avoid Winter Pruning (Major Cuts):
   • Method: While light shaping might be fine in dormancy, avoid heavy pruning of live wood in late fall or early winter, as this can stimulate new growth or expose tender inner wood.
   • Why: New growth will be vulnerable to frost.

By proactively taking these protective measures, you can help your Cherry Laurel endure harsh winters and emerge healthy and ready for spring growth.

Can Cherry Laurel Be Pruned in Winter (Dormant Season)?

Yes, Cherry Laurel can be pruned in winter, specifically during its dormant season (late winter to very early spring before new growth begins). This is often the preferred time for significant structural pruning, size reduction, or rejuvenation for many deciduous shrubs, and while Cherry Laurel is evergreen, it follows a similar principle for heavy cuts.

Here's what to know about pruning Cherry Laurel in winter:

• Timing:
  • Late Winter to Very Early Spring (February-March in many regions): This is when the plant is dormant or just beginning to show signs of waking up, but before the main flush of new growth or flowering.
• Purpose of Winter Pruning:
  • Structural Shaping: Easier to see the plant's framework without a dense canopy of new leaves, allowing for better cuts to create shape or maintain a hedge.
  • Size Reduction: Best time for reducing the overall size of the plant or cutting it back hard for rejuvenation.
  • Removing Dead, Damaged, or Diseased Wood: Clearly visible during dormancy. This is essential for plant health.
  • Thinning: Removing some interior branches to improve air circulation and light penetration for the coming growing season.
• Why Winter is Preferred for Heavy Pruning:
  • Minimized Stress: While still a stressor, the plant is not actively growing, so it can recover from cuts without diverting energy from active growth or flowering.
  • Reduced Disease Risk: In cold weather, most fungal and bacterial pathogens are less active, reducing the risk of infection through pruning wounds.
  • No Interference with Bloom/Fruit: You are pruning before flower buds have fully developed or opened (they typically bloom in spring), so you are less likely to sacrifice the current year's flowers or fruit.
• What to Prune:
  • Cut back overgrown branches to a strong side branch or bud.
  • Remove any crossing, rubbing, or inward-growing branches.
  • Remove any weak or spindly growth.
  • For a dense hedge, you can shear or prune for shape.
• Tools: Use clean, sharp pruning shears, loppers, or a pruning saw depending on branch thickness. Sterilize tools, especially if removing diseased wood.

While Cherry Laurel retains its leaves year-round, its growth cycle makes late winter the ideal time for significant pruning tasks, supporting its long-term health and desired form.

What is the Impact of Cold on Cherry Laurel Foliage?

The impact of cold on Cherry Laurel foliage can range from minor aesthetic changes to significant damage or even death, depending on the severity and duration of the cold, the specific cultivar, and the plant's overall health. While it's an evergreen, its leaves are not entirely impervious to freezing temperatures.

Here's how cold impacts Cherry Laurel foliage:

• Color Changes (Winter Bronzing):
  • Mild Cold: In response to mild cold temperatures (especially in USDA Zone 6 or colder), Cherry Laurel leaves may develop a bronze, purplish, or reddish tinge. This is a natural protective mechanism, similar to deciduous trees changing color, as the plant produces pigments (anthocyanins) to protect chlorophyll from light damage in cold.
  • Impact: This is generally not harmful and the leaves will revert to green in spring.
• Leaf Drop (Minor):
  • Mild Stress: In response to cold stress, especially if combined with very dry conditions, the plant may drop a small number of older, interior leaves.
  • Impact: Usually minor and not a cause for concern, as the plant will produce new foliage in spring.
• Winter Burn / Desiccation:
  • Severe Cold, Dry Winds, Frozen Soil: This is a more serious type of damage. When very cold, dry winds (especially from the north) whip across the evergreen leaves, they draw out moisture. If the soil is frozen, the roots cannot replenish this lost water.
  • Impact: Leaves turn brown and crispy, often starting at the tips or margins, and eventually the entire leaf may brown. This looks like the plant has been "burned." Severe winter burn can cause extensive defoliation and even branch dieback.
• Frost Damage (Freezing):
  • Extreme Cold/Late Frosts: If temperatures drop well below the plant's hardiness threshold, or if a late spring frost hits tender new growth, water inside the plant's cells can freeze and rupture the cell walls.
  • Impact: Leaves will turn black, brown, or mushy almost overnight after thawing. This is often fatal to the affected parts and can severely damage or kill young plants.
• Cultivar Variation:
  • Some Cherry Laurel cultivars (e.g., 'Otto Luyken', 'Schipkaensis') are known to be more cold-hardy or more resistant to winter burn than others. Choosing these varieties is key in colder zones.

Protecting Cherry Laurel from harsh winter conditions through proper siting, mulching, and watering is essential for maintaining its evergreen beauty and preventing significant cold damage.

What Are Common Pests and Diseases That Affect Cherry Laurel in Winter?

While Cherry Laurel's active growth largely ceases in winter, it can still be affected by certain pests and diseases, either due to their overwintering habits or cold-weather vulnerability. Identifying these potential issues helps in proactive management.

Here are common pests and diseases that can affect Cherry Laurel during or because of winter:

Pests:

1. Scale Insects:
   • Winter Status: Adult scale insects are often dormant or less active in winter, but their eggs or nymphs can overwinter on branches and stems, hiding under protective waxy coatings.
   • Impact: Cause yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and sticky honeydew. Damage may become more apparent in spring.
   • Management: Dormant oil sprays (applied in late winter before bud break) are highly effective at smothering overwintering scale.
2. Aphids:
   • Winter Status: Aphid eggs can overwinter in bark crevices. Adults are generally not active in cold winter.
   • Impact: Will emerge in spring to feed on new, tender growth.
   • Management: Dormant oil spray can target overwintering eggs.
3. Spider Mites:
   • Winter Status: Some species of spider mites can overwinter as eggs on the plant. Thrive in dry conditions, which can occur indoors if overwintering container plants.
   • Impact: Stippling (tiny dots) on leaves, yellowing, and fine webbing. Damage is most severe in warm, dry weather.
   • Management: Dormant oil spray can reduce overwintering populations.
4. Cherry Shot Hole Borer (Less common, but possible stress indicator):
   • Winter Status: Larvae overwinter in tunnels.
   • Impact: Small holes and sap oozing from the trunk/branches. Often targets stressed or declining trees.
   • Management: Maintain tree health; chemical treatments are usually not feasible for home gardeners.

Diseases:

1. Powdery Mildew:
   • Winter Status: Spores can overwinter on plant debris or dormant buds. Not actively growing in winter.
   • Impact: Appears as white, powdery patches on leaves in spring/summer when conditions are right.
   • Management: Proper pruning for air circulation; resistant varieties; fungicides (e.g., organic powdery mildew spray) in spring.
2. Leaf Spot Diseases (e.g., Bacterial Leaf Spot, Fungal Leaf Spot):
   • Winter Status: Fungal spores or bacterial cells can overwinter in fallen leaves or on infected branches. Not actively spreading in winter.
   • Impact: Cause dark spots on leaves in spring/summer.
   • Management: Good sanitation (raking fallen leaves in fall); proper pruning for air circulation.
3. Winter Desiccation/Cold Damage (Abiotic Stress - mimicking disease):
   • Winter Status: Occurs during winter.
   • Impact: Leaves turn brown, crispy, and dry, often resembling a disease. This is due to dry, cold winds drawing moisture from leaves while roots are unable to absorb water from frozen soil.
   • Management: Preventative measures like fall watering, mulching, and protection from wind are key.
4. Root Rot (if poor drainage):
   • Winter Status: While symptoms may appear in spring, the damage can originate in winter if the soil is consistently soggy and cold, stressing roots.
   • Impact: Wilting, yellowing, and overall decline.
   • Management: Ensure excellent soil drainage at planting.

By being aware of these potential winter threats and implementing appropriate preventative measures or early spring treatments, you can keep your Cherry Laurel healthy year-round.