How do You Get Rid of Chicory Weeds? - Plant Care Guide

To get rid of chicory weeds, the most effective long-term strategies focus on consistent removal of its deep taproot and preventing seed production. Manual extraction with a weeding fork or dandelion digger is crucial for young plants, while diligent mowing to prevent flowering, broadleaf herbicides for larger infestations, and improving turf density are key components of a successful control plan. Understanding chicory's growth habit is vital for its eradication.

What is Chicory Weed and Why is it a Problem?

Chicory weed (Cichorium intybus) is a common perennial plant known for its bright blue flowers and deep, stubborn taproot. While often admired for its wild beauty and even cultivated for its leaves or root, it can quickly become a problematic weed in lawns, gardens, and agricultural fields. Its invasive nature and resilience make it a challenging plant to eradicate once established, competing with desired plants for resources.

Here's why chicory weed can be a nuisance:

• Deep Taproot: The most challenging feature of chicory is its incredibly long and thick taproot, which can extend several feet deep into the soil. This taproot makes it highly resilient; if even a small piece of the root remains after weeding, the plant can regenerate. It also helps the plant access water and nutrients from deep within the soil, allowing it to thrive in dry conditions where other plants might struggle.
• Aggressive Growth: Chicory grows vigorously, forming a dense rosette of basal leaves that can smother nearby desirable plants, especially in lawns and garden beds.
• Prolific Seed Production: Each chicory plant produces numerous seeds that can remain viable in the soil for several years. This means even if you remove mature plants, a new flush of seedlings can emerge for seasons to come, contributing to its persistent presence.
• Environmental Competition: In agricultural settings, chicory weed competes with crops for water, nutrients, and sunlight, potentially reducing yields. In lawns, it creates unsightly bare spots and detracts from the uniform appearance of turfgrass.
• Aesthetic Disruption: While the blue flowers can be pretty, they are often considered undesirable in manicured lawns and formal garden spaces, making the area look unkempt or wild.
• Tough Stems: As the plant matures, it sends up tough, branching flower stalks that can be difficult to cut with standard mowers and become woody, further complicating removal.

Understanding these characteristics of chicory weed is the first step in devising an effective strategy to get rid of it. Its deep taproot and abundant seed production are the primary reasons it requires persistent and targeted removal efforts.

How Do I Identify Chicory Weed in My Garden?

To identify chicory weed in your garden, look for a distinct set of characteristics that appear at different stages of its growth cycle. Recognizing these features, particularly its rosette of leaves, hairy stems, and unique blue flowers, is crucial for early detection and effective removal before its deep taproot fully establishes.

Here's a guide to identifying chicory weed:

Basal Rosette (Young Plant/First Year Growth):

• Leaves: The initial growth forms a basal rosette (a flat cluster of leaves close to the ground) that can resemble dandelion leaves. These leaves are typically:
  • Long and broad: Often 3-10 inches long and 1-3 inches wide.
  • Lobed or deeply toothed: Similar to dandelion leaves, but often with a coarser texture and more irregular, jagged margins.
  • Hairy: The leaves and stems in the rosette are usually covered in coarse, stiff hairs.
  • Green to purplish-green: The color can vary.

Mature Plant (Second Year and Beyond, When Bolting):

• Stem: As the plant matures (typically in its second year or later), it sends up a tall, rigid, and branching flower stalk, often reaching 1-5 feet in height.
  • Hairy: The stem is covered in stiff, bristly hairs.
  • Milky Sap: If you break a stem or leaf, it will exude a white, milky sap, similar to dandelion or common lettuce, which can be irritating to some skin.
• Upper Stem Leaves: The leaves on the flower stalks are much smaller and narrower than the basal leaves, clasping directly to the stem.
• Flowers: This is the most distinctive identification feature.
  • Color: Bright, clear sky-blue flowers are most common, though occasionally you might find white or pinkish variants.
  • Shape: Each flower is composed of multiple strap-like petals (ray florets) with toothed tips. They resemble small dandelion flowers but are blue.
  • Location: The flowers appear directly on the stiff, branching stems or in the leaf axils (where the leaves meet the stem).
  • Timing: They typically bloom from summer through fall.
  • Opening/Closing: Chicory flowers are known for opening in the morning and closing by midday or on cloudy days.

Roots:

• Taproot: If you try to pull it, you'll immediately notice its defining feature: a thick, fleshy, long taproot that can be several feet deep and resembles a parsnip or carrot. This taproot is whitish to yellowish and woody.

Common Look-Alikes:

• Dandelion: Both have basal rosettes and milky sap. However, dandelion flowers are yellow, solitary on hollow stalks, and chicory flowers are blue, on stiff, branching stems.
• Wild Lettuce: Can have similar lobed leaves and milky sap, but typically has more delicate flowers and less robust stems.

By familiarizing yourself with these key features, especially the basal rosette and the characteristic blue flowers on stiff stems, you can confidently identify chicory weed and implement appropriate control measures. For a closer look at plant details, a good gardening magnifying glass can be helpful.

What Are the Best Manual Methods to Get Rid of Chicory Weeds?

The best manual methods to get rid of chicory weeds focus on thorough and persistent removal of its deep taproot, which is crucial to prevent regrowth. This approach is most effective for young plants or smaller infestations and avoids the use of chemical herbicides, making it suitable for organic gardening.

Here are the most effective manual techniques:

1. Digging Out the Taproot (Most Effective):

   • Timing: This method is most effective when the chicory weed is young and its taproot hasn't yet reached its full depth, or after a good rain when the soil is soft and moist.
   • Tools: Use a dandelion digger, a weeding fork, a narrow trowel, or a specialized root weeder. These tools are designed to reach deep and leverage out taproots.
   • Technique:
     1. Insert the tool deep into the soil directly next to the plant's taproot.
     2. Wiggle the tool to loosen the soil around the root.
     3. Apply steady leverage to pry the entire taproot (or as much of it as possible) out of the ground.
     4. Crucial: Ensure you remove at least the top 2-4 inches of the taproot. Any portion left behind can regenerate the plant.
   • Follow-Up: Inspect the hole for any remaining root fragments and remove them. Backfill the hole with fresh soil.

2. Repeated Hoeing (for Young Plants/Disturbed Areas):

   • Timing: This is best for very young chicory seedlings or in freshly cultivated garden beds before the taproot becomes too established.
   • Technique: Use a sharp hoe to sever the young plant just below the soil surface.
   • Limitation: This is less effective on mature chicory with deep taproots, as cutting the top growth will only encourage the root to resprout. It primarily manages new germination.

3. Smothering/Solarization (for Larger Patches):

   • Smothering: For large, dense patches of chicory, especially in areas you don't plan to plant immediately, you can smother them.
     1. Cut the chicory plants down as low as possible.
     2. Cover the area with several layers of cardboard or thick newspaper.
     3. Cover the cardboard with 6-12 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, straw, compost).
     4. Leave in place for at least 6 months to a year. This deprives the plants of light and smothers them.
   • Solarization: In very sunny, hot climates, you can use clear plastic sheeting to "cook" the soil and kill weeds.
     1. Mow or cut down chicory plants.
     2. Water the area thoroughly.
     3. Cover the area tightly with clear plastic sheeting (4-6 mil thick), burying the edges to trap heat.
     4. Leave in place for 4-8 weeks during the hottest part of summer. This method kills weeds, seeds, and some soil pathogens.

4. Preventing Seed Head Formation (Mowing/Cutting):

   • Timing: If manual digging is not feasible for every plant, at least prevent chicory from going to seed.
   • Technique: Regularly mow or cut down the tall flower stalks before they produce mature seeds. This significantly reduces the spread of new plants in future seasons. A sharp pair of gardening shears can be useful for individual plants.

Consistency is key with manual methods. Regular inspection and prompt removal of new chicory seedlings will prevent them from developing stubborn taproots, making long-term control much more manageable.

Can Herbicides Be Used to Control Chicory Weeds?

Yes, herbicides can be used to control chicory weeds, particularly in situations where infestations are widespread in lawns or non-crop areas, and manual removal isn't practical. Selective broadleaf herbicides are generally the most effective choice, as they target chicory without harming desirable grasses. However, proper application, timing, and product selection are critical for success and safety.

Here's how herbicides can be used for chicory weed control:

1. Choose the Right Type of Herbicide:

   • Selective Broadleaf Herbicides: These are the preferred choice for lawns. They are designed to kill broadleaf weeds like chicory but leave turfgrass unharmed. Look for products containing active ingredients such as:
     • 2,4-D
     • MCPP (Mecoprop)
     • Dicamba
     • These are often found in combination (e.g., "weed-and-feed" products or liquid lawn weed killers). A broadleaf weed killer can be effective.
   • Glyphosate (Non-Selective): This herbicide kills almost any plant it touches. It is suitable for spot treatment in non-lawn areas (e.g., gravel paths, fence lines) where you want to kill everything, but never use it in a lawn or garden bed near desirable plants, as it will kill them too.

2. Timing of Application (Crucial for Perennials):

   • Fall: The most effective time to apply broadleaf herbicides to chicory is in the fall (mid-September to late October, before a hard frost). At this time, perennial weeds like chicory are actively drawing nutrients down to their roots to store for winter. The herbicide will be translocated more effectively to the deep taproot, leading to a more complete kill.
   • Spring: A secondary application can be made in the spring when chicory is actively growing but before it flowers. This targets young plants and weakens established ones, though it may require follow-up.
   • Avoid Summer: Avoid applying herbicides during the hottest part of summer when plants are stressed or dormant, as effectiveness will be reduced.

3. Application Method:

   • Follow Label Directions: Always read and strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions on the herbicide label. This includes application rates, safety precautions (wearing gloves, eye protection), and recommended weather conditions.
   • Even Coverage: For liquid herbicides, use a garden sprayer to ensure even coverage of the chicory leaves. The herbicide needs to be absorbed through the foliage.
   • Spot Treatment: For individual plants or small patches, spot treating with a ready-to-use liquid herbicide is often sufficient and reduces overall chemical use.
   • Weather Conditions: Apply on a calm day with no wind to prevent drift onto desirable plants. Ensure no rain is expected for at least 24 hours after application to allow the herbicide to be absorbed.

4. Repeat Applications:

   • Persistence: Due to its deep taproot, a single application may not completely kill chicory weed. You may need to make follow-up applications, especially if treated in spring or if new growth appears.
   • Monitor: Continuously monitor the area for regrowth or new seedlings.

Important Considerations:

• Safety: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) as directed by the label.
• Environmental Impact: Consider the environmental impact of herbicides. Use them judiciously and target specific weeds rather than broad applications.
• Garden Beds: Be extremely cautious when using herbicides in active garden beds, especially around edible plants. Manual removal is often safer in these areas.

While herbicides offer a powerful tool for getting rid of chicory weeds, they should be used as part of a comprehensive weed management plan, often in conjunction with cultural practices, for the most effective and sustainable control.

How Can I Prevent Chicory Weeds from Returning?

Preventing chicory weeds from returning requires a multi-faceted and long-term approach that combines good cultural practices with vigilance. Since chicory boasts a deep taproot and prolific seed production, consistent management strategies aimed at depleting the seed bank and improving the health of your desirable plants are essential for sustained control.

Here are key strategies to prevent chicory weeds from re-establishing:

1. Improve Turf Density (for Lawns):

   • Thick Grass: A healthy, dense lawn is the best defense against weeds. Thick turfgrass crowds out weed seedlings, preventing them from establishing.
   • Proper Mowing: Mow your lawn at the correct height (usually 2.5-3.5 inches for most turf types in most regions). Taller grass shades the soil, keeping it cooler and suppressing weed seed germination.
   • Adequate Watering: Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth in your turf, making it more competitive.
   • Regular Fertilization: Follow a regular lawn fertilization schedule to maintain strong grass growth.
   • Overseeding: Periodically overseed thin areas of your lawn to increase density, especially in fall.

2. Prevent Seed Production (Critical):

   • Mow Regularly: In lawns and unplanted areas, regular mowing (before chicory plants can flower and set seed) is paramount. If you see the tall, branching flower stalks, cut them down.
   • Hand-Pull or Deadhead: In garden beds, if you can't remove the entire plant, at least deadhead (remove the flowers) before they go to seed. This is especially important for any plants that were missed during initial removal efforts.
   • Dispose Properly: Do not add chicory plants with mature seeds to your compost pile, as the seeds may survive and spread.

3. Mulching (for Garden Beds):

   • Barrier: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch (wood chips, straw, shredded leaves, compost) to garden beds. Mulch acts as a physical barrier that smothers new chicory seedlings by blocking light.
   • Suppress Seeds: It also helps suppress the germination of any chicory seeds already in the soil.
   • Application: Apply mulch directly to the soil surface, not piled up against plant stems. A good garden mulch not only helps with weeds but also conserves moisture and enriches the soil.

4. Use Pre-Emergent Herbicides (for Lawns/Bare Areas):

   • Target Seedlings: A pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in early spring and/or fall to prevent chicory seeds (and other weed seeds) from germinating. It creates a chemical barrier in the soil.
   • Timing: Timing is crucial; apply before seeds sprout. These products do not kill existing weeds.
   • Caution: Do not use pre-emergents in areas where you plan to sow desirable grass seed or other seeds, as they will prevent those from germinating too.

5. Minimize Soil Disturbance:

   • Avoid Bringing Seeds to Surface: Tilling or digging in your garden can bring buried chicory seeds (which can remain viable for years) closer to the soil surface, where they can germinate.
   • Spot Treat: If possible, try to practice minimal disturbance, opting for spot weeding rather than broad cultivation.

By combining these proactive and consistent strategies, you can significantly reduce the presence of chicory weeds in your landscape, transitioning from reactive removal to preventative management. Patience and persistence will ultimately lead to a healthier, weed-free garden and lawn.