How to propagate make homemade fertilizer from cuttings? - Plant Care Guide

Propagating plants from cuttings is a method of plant multiplication, while making homemade fertilizer from cuttings refers to using plant material, including cuttings, as an ingredient in compost, compost tea, or fermented plant juices to create nutrient-rich amendments for your garden. You cannot directly "propagate" fertilizer from a cutting in the same way you propagate a new plant; rather, you use the cuttings as a source of organic matter and concentrated nutrients to feed your soil and plants.

What is Homemade Fertilizer from Plant Cuttings?

Homemade fertilizer from plant cuttings refers to various nutrient-rich concoctions created by decomposing or fermenting plant material, including trimmings, leaves, and, yes, even cuttings (those pieces of plant you might otherwise discard). Instead of propagating new plants, this method focuses on extracting or releasing the nutrients stored within these plant parts to feed your soil and existing plants naturally. It's a sustainable way to recycle garden waste and boost your garden's health.

Here are the primary forms of homemade fertilizer derived from plant cuttings:

Compost:
- Description: Plant cuttings, along with other organic waste, are a fantastic "green" (nitrogen-rich) component for your compost pile. As they decompose through the action of microorganisms, their nutrients are broken down and released into stable, rich compost.
- Benefits: Compost is a well-rounded soil amendment that improves soil structure, water retention, drainage, and slowly provides a broad spectrum of nutrients to plants.
- How it works: You chop up plant cuttings and add them in layers with "brown" materials (carbon-rich, like dry leaves, straw, wood chips) in your compost bin. Microbes then break them down over weeks or months into finished compost.
Compost Tea (using plant-rich compost):
- Description: A liquid fertilizer made by steeping finished compost (which would contain decomposed plant cuttings) in water, often with aeration. This extracts soluble nutrients and beneficial microbes.
- Benefits: Provides a quick boost of nutrients and a microbial inoculation to the soil or can be used as a foliar spray to enhance plant health and disease resistance.
- How it works: While not directly from "cuttings," the nutrients and microbes from the decomposed cuttings in the compost are transferred to the water.
Fermented Plant Juices (FPJ) / Fermented Plant Extracts (FPE):
- Description: A highly concentrated liquid fertilizer made by fermenting fresh, nutrient-rich plant material (like comfrey, nettle, or specific nutrient-accumulating "dynamic accumulators") in water. This is where "cuttings" are used most directly in a liquid fertilizer.
- Benefits: Provides a targeted boost of specific macro and micronutrients, enzymes, and plant growth hormones, depending on the plant material used.
- How it works: Fresh plant cuttings are chopped and steeped in water for several weeks, often with a little sugar or molasses to aid fermentation. As the plant material breaks down anaerobically, it releases its internal "juice" and nutrients into the water. This liquid is then strained and diluted before use.
Comfrey Tea / Nettle Tea (Herbal Teas for Plants):
- Description: A specific type of fermented plant extract, often made from these two particularly nutrient-rich plants. Comfrey is high in potassium and trace minerals, while nettle is rich in nitrogen and iron.
- Benefits: Provides a potent, targeted liquid feed.
- How it works: Similar to FPJ, fresh comfrey or nettle cuttings are steeped in water, allowed to ferment, and then diluted for application.
Chop-and-Drop Mulch:
- Description: While not a "fertilizer" in the traditional sense, it's a direct way to return nutrients. Freshly cut plant material (including large cuttings or trimmings from pruning) is simply chopped into smaller pieces and dropped directly onto the soil surface around plants.
- Benefits: As the material slowly decomposes, it releases nutrients directly into the soil. It also acts as a mulch, suppressing weeds, conserving moisture, and moderating soil temperature.
- How it works: Gravity, rain, and soil organisms slowly break down the material.

The common thread among these methods is the ecological principle of nutrient cycling—taking organic matter that would otherwise be waste and transforming it into a valuable resource to enrich your garden, without relying on synthetic chemicals.

What Plants Are Best for Making Homemade Liquid Fertilizers from Cuttings?

When it comes to making homemade liquid fertilizers from cuttings, selecting the right plants is crucial, as their nutrient content will directly determine the quality of your fertilizer. Certain plants are known as "dynamic accumulators" because they have deep root systems that draw up a wide range of minerals from the soil, making them excellent choices for nutrient-rich liquid feeds.

Here are some of the best plants to use for making homemade liquid fertilizers from cuttings:

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale or S. x uplandicum 'Bocking 14'):
- Why it's best: Comfrey is often considered the king of homemade liquid fertilizers. It has incredibly deep taproots that mine a vast array of nutrients from the subsoil, particularly potassium (K), which is essential for flowering and fruiting, as well as calcium, magnesium, and various trace elements.
- How to use: Harvest large quantities of comfrey leaves and stems (cuttings), chop them roughly, and steep them in water.
- Benefits: Provides a balanced feed, especially good for tomatoes, fruit trees, and flowering plants. It produces a potent brew.
- Caution: 'Bocking 14' is a sterile hybrid that won't spread by seed, making it ideal for the garden.
Nettle (Urtica dioica - Stinging Nettle):
- Why it's great: Nettle is a fantastic source of nitrogen (N) and iron, vital for leafy green growth. It also contains good amounts of potassium, calcium, magnesium, and trace elements.
- How to use: Wear gloves! Harvest fresh nettle cuttings before they flower, chop them, and steep them in water.
- Benefits: Excellent for leafy greens, young seedlings (when diluted), and overall plant vigor.
Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale):
- Why they're good: These common "weeds" are surprisingly nutrient-rich, especially high in potassium, calcium, and iron. Their taproots go deep, accumulating minerals.
- How to use: Use leaves and flowers. Chop them and steep.
- Benefits: Free and abundant. Good for overall plant health.
Horsetail (Equisetum arvense - Field Horsetail):
- Why it's useful: Rich in silica, which strengthens plant cell walls, improving resistance to pests and fungal diseases. Also contains potassium.
- How to use: Use young, sterile stems. Chop and steep.
- Benefits: Acts as a tonic and strengthens plants. Can be invasive in the garden itself.
Legumes (e.g., Clover, Alfalfa):
- Why they're useful: These plants (often cover crops) are nitrogen fixers, meaning they can convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form usable by plants.
- How to use: Chop fresh growth (cuttings) and steep to create a nitrogen-rich tea.
- Benefits: Provides a gentle, natural source of nitrogen.
Seaweed/Kelp:
- Why it's beneficial: While not "cuttings" from your garden, fresh seaweed (if you live near the coast) or dried kelp meal is exceptionally rich in trace minerals, growth hormones, and beneficial compounds.
- How to use: Rinse fresh seaweed, chop, and steep. For dried kelp meal, follow package directions for making a liquid solution.
- Benefits: Acts as a powerful general tonic, promoting root growth, stress resistance, and overall plant health. You can find liquid kelp extract if you don't have access to fresh seaweed.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium):
- Why it's good: Known as a "plant doctor" or "compost activator," yarrow contains copper, phosphorus, and potassium, and is believed to enhance the growth of nearby plants.
- How to use: Chop leaves and flowers and steep.

General Tips for Using Cuttings for Liquid Fertilizers:

Fresh Material: Always use fresh, healthy, disease-free plant material.
Chop Finely: Chop the cuttings into smaller pieces to increase the surface area for nutrient extraction.
Dilution: Most concentrated liquid fertilizers made from cuttings need to be heavily diluted before applying to plants (e.g., 1 part tea to 10-20 parts water).
Aroma: Be prepared for a strong, sometimes unpleasant, odor during the fermentation process! Do it outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.

By strategically using these nutrient-rich plant cuttings, you can create powerful, customized liquid fertilizers that naturally boost your garden's health and productivity.

How Do I Make Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) from Cuttings?

Making Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) from cuttings is a traditional, natural farming technique that creates a highly concentrated, nutrient-rich liquid fertilizer. It uses the plant's own enzymes and microbes to break down its cellular structure, releasing an abundance of soluble nutrients, enzymes, and plant hormones. This method is distinct from steeping in water for tea, as it relies on fermentation in a sugar medium.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to make Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) from cuttings:

Key Principles of FPJ:

Anaerobic Fermentation: Unlike aerobic composting, FPJ involves fermentation in a largely oxygen-free environment.
Sugar as Catalyst: Brown sugar or molasses is added to draw out the plant juices through osmosis and feed the beneficial microbes that facilitate fermentation.
Nutrient-Rich Source: Choose highly vigorous, nutrient-accumulating plants (as mentioned in the previous section, e.g., comfrey, nettle, dandelions).

Materials You'll Need:

Fresh Plant Cuttings: From your chosen nutrient-rich plant(s). Harvest them in the early morning after dew has dried, when they are full of vitality.
Brown Sugar or Molasses: Organic brown sugar or blackstrap molasses for plants (unsulphured).
Non-Metallic Container: A clean, wide-mouthed glass jar, ceramic crock, or food-grade plastic bucket. Avoid metal, which can react with the fermenting mixture.
Breathable Cover: A piece of cloth or paper towel secured with a rubber band, allowing air exchange but keeping out insects.
Weight (Optional but Recommended): A clean rock, smaller jar, or plastic bag filled with water to weigh down the plant material.

Step-by-Step Process:

Harvest and Prepare Cuttings:
- Harvest: Collect fresh, healthy, disease-free leaves and tender stems from your chosen plants (e.g., comfrey, nettle). Avoid woody stems.
- Chop: Roughly chop the plant material into 1-2 inch pieces. This increases the surface area for fermentation. Do not wash the cuttings, as you want to preserve the natural microbes on their surface.
Layer Plant Material and Sugar:
- Ratio: The traditional ratio is 1 part plant material to 1 part brown sugar by weight. If using molasses, adjust slightly as it's denser.
- Layering: In your non-metallic container, create alternating layers:
  - Start with a thin layer of brown sugar at the bottom.
  - Add a layer of chopped plant material.
  - Cover that with another layer of brown sugar.
  - Repeat until the container is almost full, leaving about 2-3 inches of headspace from the rim to allow for expansion and gas buildup during fermentation.
- Top Layer: Finish with a generous layer of brown sugar on top, completely covering the plant material.
Compress the Mixture (Optional but Helpful):
- Gently press down on the layers to remove large air pockets and ensure good contact between the plant material and sugar. You can use your fist or a clean potato masher.
Add a Weight and Cover:
- Place a plate or a clean weight (like a rock or a smaller jar filled with water) directly on top of the mixture to keep the plant material submerged under the liquid that will start to form.
- Cover the container opening with a breathable cloth or paper towel and secure it with a rubber band. This allows gases to escape while keeping insects out. Do NOT use an airtight lid at this stage, as gas buildup can cause the container to explode.
Fermentation Process:
- Location: Place the container in a cool, dark, and consistent temperature location (e.g., a basement, pantry, or shaded spot outdoors if temperatures are mild). Ideal temperature is around 65-75°F (18-24°C).
- Duration: Fermentation typically takes 7-14 days, but can vary based on temperature and plant material. In warmer conditions, it will be faster.
- Signs of Fermentation: You'll see the sugar dissolving, liquid forming, and bubbling as gases are produced. The plant material will shrink significantly and soften.
- Stirring (Optional): Some practitioners stir gently once a day for the first few days to ensure even mixing, but ensure the plant material remains submerged.
Strain the Juice:
- Once the plant material has mostly broken down and a rich, dark liquid has formed, and bubbling has significantly reduced (indicating fermentation is slowing), it's time to strain.
- Squeeze: Using your clean hands (wear gloves, especially for nettles!) or a cheesecloth, squeeze out all the liquid from the fermented plant material.
- Discard Solids: The remaining solid pulp can be added to your compost pile.
Store the FPJ:
- Containers: Store the concentrated FPJ in dark, airtight glass bottles or food-grade plastic containers. Fill them almost to the top, leaving just a small airspace.
- Vent Periodically ("Burping"): For the first week or two of storage, continue to "burp" the containers daily by briefly loosening the lid to release any residual gas pressure. After this, less frequent burping may be needed.
- Location: Store in a cool, dark place (like a basement or root cellar) that maintains a stable temperature, ideally below 60°F (15°C) to slow further fermentation.
- Longevity: Properly stored FPJ can last for several months to a year or more.

How to Use FPJ:

Dilution: FPJ is a concentrate and must be heavily diluted before use. A common dilution rate is 1 part FPJ to 500 or 1000 parts water (e.g., 1 teaspoon per gallon of water).
Application: Use as a soil drench or a foliar spray.
Timing: Apply during the active growing season.

By following these steps, you can successfully create your own potent, natural Fermented Plant Juice from cuttings, providing your plants with a valuable homemade fertilizer.

How to Prepare and Store Compost Tea for Winter?

Compost tea is a living liquid fertilizer teeming with beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients. Preparing and storing it for winter is less about long-term preservation of live microbes and more about maximizing the use of fresh tea and then properly storing the compost source material. For truly long-term winter storage, it's generally better to focus on storing the finished compost and brewing fresh tea in spring.

Here’s how to prepare and store compost tea for winter:

Understanding Compost Tea's Shelf Life:

Aerated Tea: Actively aerated compost tea (brewed with an air pump) has a very short shelf life, typically 4-24 hours. Its beneficial microbes need oxygen to survive. It should be used almost immediately.
Non-Aerated Tea (Compost Leachate/Extract): Tea made by simply steeping compost without aeration will go anaerobic quickly and can develop foul odors. While some nutrients are extracted, it loses many microbial benefits and is not ideal for long-term storage.

Given the short shelf life of truly beneficial aerated compost tea, the "winterization" strategy focuses on:

Using Up Fresh Tea in Fall:
- Last Applications: In late fall, as your garden winds down but before the ground freezes, make a final batch or two of compost tea.
- Application: Apply it as a soil drench around dormant perennial plants, shrubs, fruit trees, and the general garden beds. The soil still has some microbial activity even in cool temperatures above freezing, and the nutrients will be available to roots.
- Benefits: Boosts soil health and microbe populations before winter, and provides a slow release of nutrients.
Properly Storing Your Source Compost:
- Since you typically won't store brewed tea for months, the main goal is to ensure your finished compost (which you use to make tea) is stored correctly over winter.
- Moisture Content: Ensure your finished compost is slightly damp but not waterlogged. If it's too wet, it can become anaerobic and smelly. If it's too dry, some beneficial microbes may die off.
- Covered and Protected: Store finished compost in a covered, protected area.
  - Compost Bins: Keep the lid on your compost bin.
  - Tarps: Cover finished compost piles with a heavy-duty tarp to prevent nutrient leaching from rain and snow.
  - Storage Bins: Store in large plastic storage bins with lids, or burlap sacks.
- Temperature: Store in a cool, dark, and above-freezing location if possible (e.g., an unheated shed or garage). While compost itself won't die if it freezes, maintaining a cool, stable temperature helps preserve more microbial diversity.
- Pest Protection: Ensure compost is contained to deter rodents or other pests seeking winter shelter.
Storing Equipment:
- Cleanliness: Thoroughly clean all your compost tea brewing equipment (brewer, air pump, bubblers, filter bags) after your last batch of the season. Use a mild bleach solution or vinegar rinse to prevent mold and bacterial buildup.
- Dry Storage: Ensure all components are completely dry before storing them in a clean, dry place. This prevents rust on metal parts and deterioration of plastic or tubing.

Resuming Compost Tea Production in Spring:

When spring arrives and temperatures rise, you can easily resume brewing fresh batches of compost tea using your properly stored finished compost.
The warm temperatures will reactivate dormant microbes, allowing you to create fresh, potent tea ready to give your spring seedlings and garden plants a healthy start.

In summary, for compost tea, the best "winterization" strategy is to use it while fresh in the fall and then focus on properly storing the finished compost source material so you can brew new, vibrant batches as soon as spring returns.

What Are the Benefits of Using Homemade Fertilizer from Cuttings?

Using homemade fertilizer from cuttings (whether in compost, FPJ, or herbal teas) offers a wealth of significant benefits for your garden, your plants, and the environment. This sustainable practice embodies the principles of closed-loop gardening, maximizing the value of organic resources.

Here are the key benefits of using homemade fertilizer from cuttings:

Nutrient Cycling and Soil Enrichment:
- Recycling Resources: You're taking organic material (cuttings, trimmings) that would otherwise be discarded and returning its nutrients directly to your soil. This is a highly efficient form of nutrient cycling.
- Improved Soil Structure: When incorporated into compost or used as chop-and-drop mulch, cuttings break down to add valuable organic matter to the soil. This improves soil aeration, water retention, and drainage, creating a healthier environment for roots.
- Microbial Boost: Homemade fertilizers are teeming with beneficial microorganisms that break down organic matter, making nutrients available to plants and fostering a thriving soil food web.
Customizable and Targeted Nutrition:
- Plant-Specific Needs: By selecting specific plants (like comfrey for potassium, nettle for nitrogen), you can create customized fertilizers tailored to your plants' needs. For example, a comfrey FPJ is excellent for flowering and fruiting plants.
- Micronutrients and Hormones: Plant-based fertilizers provide a broad spectrum of macro and micronutrients, enzymes, and natural plant hormones that synthetic fertilizers often lack, leading to more complete and balanced plant nutrition.
Cost-Effective and Sustainable:
- Free Fertilizer: The primary ingredient (plant cuttings) is typically free, sourced from your own garden waste. This significantly reduces your gardening expenses.
- Reduced Waste: You're diverting organic waste from landfills, reducing your environmental footprint.
- Eco-Friendly: By relying on natural processes, you avoid the energy-intensive production and transportation associated with synthetic fertilizers, making your gardening more sustainable.
Enhanced Plant Health and Resilience:
- Stronger Growth: Plants receiving nutrients from homemade organic fertilizers tend to develop stronger root systems and more robust overall growth.
- Disease and Pest Resistance: The natural compounds, beneficial microbes, and balanced nutrition provided by these fertilizers can enhance plants' natural defenses against diseases and pests. For instance, silica from horsetail can strengthen cell walls.
- Improved Flavor and Yield: Healthy plants grown in biologically active, nutrient-rich soil often produce more flavorful and abundant harvests for edibles, and more vibrant, long-lasting blooms for ornamentals.
Reduced Chemical Use and Environmental Impact:
- By using homemade organic fertilizers, you reduce or eliminate your reliance on synthetic chemical fertilizers. This prevents:
  - Nutrient Runoff: Less risk of excess nitrogen and phosphorus polluting waterways.
  - Soil Degradation: Avoids the potential negative impacts of synthetic chemicals on beneficial soil organisms and long-term soil structure.
- Safer for Wildlife and Family: Creates a healthier, non-toxic environment for pollinators, beneficial insects, pets, and children in your garden.
Simplicity and Accessibility:
- Many methods (especially chop-and-drop or simple teas) are easy to implement with basic tools, making organic fertilization accessible to all gardeners.

In summary, transforming plant cuttings into homemade fertilizer is a powerful and rewarding practice that leads to a healthier, more productive, and environmentally conscious garden, embodying the true spirit of sustainable gardening.