What causes insect infestation in snake plant?

Insect infestations in snake plants are primarily caused by environmental stress, particularly overwatering leading to moist soil, or bringing an already infested plant into your home. While snake plants (also known as Sansevieria or mother-in-law's tongue) are incredibly hardy, they can still become vulnerable to common houseplant pests like mealybugs, spider mites, and fungus gnats when their ideal growing conditions are compromised or pests are introduced from external sources. Keeping your snake plant healthy and isolated from new plants is key to prevention.

What common pests infest snake plants?

While relatively resistant, snake plants can still fall victim to a few common houseplant pests. Recognizing these culprits early is key to successful treatment and preventing widespread infestation in your home. These pests often go unnoticed until their populations are significant.

What are mealybugs on snake plants and how do they cause infestation?

Mealybugs are tiny, soft-bodied insects that look like small, white, cottony masses, often found in the crevices of snake plant leaves or where leaves emerge from the soil. They are a common cause of insect infestation in snake plants because they thrive in warm, sheltered environments and feed by sucking the sap from the plant, weakening it over time. Their waxy coating makes them somewhat resistant to topical treatments, contributing to persistent infestations if not fully addressed.

• Appearance: They are typically 1/10 to 1/5 inch long, oval-shaped, and covered in a white, waxy, powdery substance, often resembling tiny bits of cotton.
• Location: You'll most often find them tucked into the tight spaces where snake plant leaves meet, along the undersides of leaves, or at the base near the soil line. They prefer protected areas.
• Damage:
  • Sap-Sucking: Mealybugs feed by inserting their needle-like mouthparts into the plant tissue and sucking out the sugary sap.
  • Yellowing/Wilting: This feeding depletes the plant's energy, leading to yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or wilting in severe cases.
  • Honeydew and Sooty Mold: They excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can attract ants and promote the growth of black sooty mold. This mold doesn't directly harm the plant but blocks light and looks unsightly.
• Cause of Infestation:
  • New Plants: The most common way mealybugs get into your home is on a new plant that was already infested. Always inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them home.
  • Contaminated Tools/Pots: Reusing uncleaned pots or tools that harbored mealybugs from a previous plant can spread them.
  • Outdoor Exposure: If your snake plant spends time outdoors, mealybugs can transfer from other plants.
  • Warm, Sheltered Conditions: They prefer the stable, warm indoor environment.

Do spider mites infest snake plants?

Yes, spider mites can absolutely infest snake plants, although they are less common than mealybugs or fungus gnats. These tiny arachnids (they are not insects, but related to spiders) are often overlooked due to their microscopic size, but their presence can lead to significant damage and contribute to the overall problem of insect infestation in snake plants. They thrive in hot, dry conditions, which can sometimes occur near heating vents in homes.

• Appearance: They are extremely tiny, often appearing as small moving specks (red, brown, or greenish) on the undersides of leaves. You usually see their damage or fine webbing before you see the mites themselves.
• Location: Primarily found on the undersides of leaves, especially near the stem.
• Damage:
  • Stippling: Spider mites feed by piercing plant cells and sucking out the contents. This causes tiny, pale yellow or silver pinprick dots (called stippling) on the leaves.
  • Yellowing: As feeding continues, these dots merge, leading to overall yellowing or bronzing of the leaves.
  • Webbing: In severe infestations, you'll see fine, silky webbing on and around the leaves, particularly where leaves join or at the tips. This webbing is a definitive sign of spider mites.
• Cause of Infestation:
  • New Plants: As with mealybugs, bringing an already infested plant into your home is the most common entry point.
  • Dry Air: Spider mites prefer dry, low-humidity conditions. Homes with dry indoor air, especially during winter heating, can be perfect breeding grounds for them.
  • Outdoor Transfer: If plants are moved outdoors, mites can transfer from other plants.
  • Wind: Very tiny, they can sometimes be carried on air currents from infested plants nearby.

What are fungus gnats in snake plants and what causes them?

Fungus gnats are small, dark, mosquito-like flies that typically hover around the soil surface of houseplants, and they are a very common indicator of insect infestation in snake plants. While the adult flies are mostly a nuisance, their larvae living in the soil are the true culprits, feeding on fungi, decaying organic matter, and, critically for snake plants, sometimes on delicate root hairs. Their presence almost always points to overwatering or excessively moist soil conditions.

• Appearance:
  • Adults: Tiny (1/8 inch long), dark-bodied, winged insects resembling small mosquitoes. They fly erratically, especially when disturbed.
  • Larvae: Translucent, worm-like larvae with a shiny black head, found in the top few inches of soil.
• Location:
  • Adults: Fly around the plant, crawl on the soil surface, or cluster around windows.
  • Larvae: Live in the top 1-2 inches of the potting mix.
• Damage:
  • Adults: Primarily a nuisance; they do not directly harm the plant.
  • Larvae: In established, healthy snake plants, the larvae usually feed on fungi and decaying organic matter. However, in heavy infestations or if the plant is stressed, they can feed on tender young roots or root hairs, which can lead to stunted growth, wilting, or general decline, especially in seedlings or cuttings. For snake plants, their presence is often more of a warning sign of poor watering practices than direct severe damage.
• Cause of Infestation:
  • Overwatering: This is the number one cause. Fungus gnats thrive in constantly moist or soggy soil, which provides the ideal breeding ground for their larvae and encourages the fungal growth they feed on. Snake plants are particularly sensitive to overwatering, making them susceptible.
  • Poor Drainage: If the pot doesn't drain well or the soil mix holds too much moisture, it creates the perfect habitat.
  • Rich Organic Soil: Soil mixes that are very high in peat or other finely ground organic matter can retain too much moisture and provide food for the larvae.
  • Contaminated Potting Mix: Fungus gnat eggs or larvae can sometimes be present in bags of potting mix, especially if stored in damp conditions.
  • New Plants: Infested new plants or their soil can introduce fungus gnats to your home.

For snake plants, the sight of fungus gnats should be a strong signal to immediately reassess your watering habits and allow the soil to dry out thoroughly between waterings.

What environmental factors attract pests to snake plants?

While snake plants are generally hardy, certain environmental factors can weaken them or create inviting conditions for pests, leading to an insect infestation. These factors often relate to improper care, stressing the plant and making it more vulnerable.

Does overwatering a snake plant cause insect infestation?

Yes, overwatering a snake plant is the leading cause of insect infestation, particularly for common pests like fungus gnats and certain types of mealybugs. Snake plants are succulents that store water in their leaves and rhizomes, making them extremely tolerant of drought but highly susceptible to root rot and pest issues when kept too wet.

Here's why overwatering attracts pests:

• Creates Ideal Breeding Grounds for Fungus Gnats:
  • Moist Soil: Fungus gnats absolutely thrive in consistently damp or soggy soil. The moist environment is essential for their eggs to hatch and for their larvae to develop.
  • Fungal Growth: Overwatering promotes the growth of fungi and decaying organic matter in the soil, which is the primary food source for fungus gnat larvae. By keeping the soil wet, you're essentially setting out a buffet for them.
• Weakens the Plant (Making it Vulnerable to Other Pests):
  • Root Rot: Excessive moisture suffocates the roots, leading to root rot. This process essentially drowns and decays the roots, making the plant unable to absorb water and nutrients effectively.
  • Stress: A plant suffering from root rot is a stressed plant. Stressed plants emit subtle signals (e.g., changes in sap composition) that can attract sap-sucking pests like mealybugs and spider mites. These pests often target weakened plants because they are easier to feed on and defend themselves less effectively.
  • Slow Drying: The characteristic thick leaves of a snake plant also mean they release water very slowly. When the soil is overwatered, it stays wet for an extended period, creating prolonged favorable conditions for pests.

Key takeaway: For snake plants, if you see fungus gnats, it's almost always a sign that you are watering too frequently or that your potting mix or drainage is inadequate. Addressing overwatering is the first and most critical step in controlling these specific infestations and improving the overall resilience of your plant against other pests.

Can low light conditions attract pests to snake plants?

Low light conditions don't directly attract pests to snake plants, but they can contribute to their vulnerability and therefore indirectly lead to a more severe insect infestation. Snake plants are known for tolerating low light, but they thrive in bright, indirect light. When they receive insufficient light, their growth slows down, and their overall health declines, making them more susceptible to pest issues.

Here's the indirect link:

• Weakened Plant: In prolonged low light, a snake plant becomes stressed. Its metabolic processes slow down, it produces less energy through photosynthesis, and its immune system might be compromised.
• Increased Vulnerability: Just like humans, a stressed plant is less able to defend itself against opportunistic pests. Sap-sucking insects like mealybugs and spider mites often target weakened plants because they are easier to extract nutrients from.
• Exacerbates Overwatering Issues: Low light also means the soil stays wet for much longer after watering, even if you're trying to water correctly. This slow drying creates an ideal environment for fungus gnats and increases the risk of root rot, which further stresses the plant and makes it even more attractive to pests.
• Reduced Vigor: A healthy, vigorous plant can often withstand a small pest population without showing significant damage. A plant struggling in low light will show symptoms much more quickly and succumb to an infestation more readily.

While you don't need direct sun, placing your snake plant in a spot with bright, indirect light will help it stay strong and resilient, making it less appealing to pests in the long run. If you notice persistent pest problems, reassessing light conditions, especially in conjunction with watering habits, is a good idea.

Does poor air circulation contribute to snake plant pest problems?

Yes, poor air circulation definitely contributes to snake plant pest problems, particularly encouraging the proliferation of pests like spider mites and fungus gnats. While often overlooked, good airflow is a vital aspect of a healthy indoor environment for plants and plays a significant role in preventing insect infestations.

Here's how poor air circulation negatively impacts snake plants and attracts pests:

• Creates Stagnant, Humid Conditions:
  • When plants are crowded together or placed in a corner with no airflow, humidity can build up around the foliage and soil.
  • Spider mites love dry air overall, but poor air circulation in combination with very hot, dry conditions can stress plants. More importantly, when humidity is slightly elevated and air is stagnant, fungal diseases (which can weaken plants and make them pest-prone) thrive.
  • Fungus gnats also benefit from humid conditions at the soil surface, as this keeps the top layer of soil moist, which is crucial for their larvae.
• Slows Down Soil Drying:
  • Lack of air movement means the top layer of soil dries out much slower after watering. As discussed, consistently moist soil is the primary attractant for fungus gnats and can lead to root rot, stressing the plant and making it vulnerable to other pests like mealybugs.
• Allows Pests to Settle and Multiply:
  • Good air circulation can physically disrupt tiny pests like spider mites, making it harder for them to build their characteristic webs and multiply rapidly.
  • It also helps to disperse pest pheromones, making it harder for pests to locate and colonize plants effectively.
• Stresses the Plant: Any condition that deviates from a plant's ideal environment creates stress. Stagnant air can make a plant less vigorous, reducing its natural defenses against pests.

To improve air circulation:

• Adequate Spacing: Don't crowd your snake plants (or any houseplants) too closely together. Give them room to "breathe."
• Ventilation: Open windows occasionally, use a ceiling fan, or place a small oscillating fan near your plants (but not blowing directly on them continuously, as this can dry them out too much).
• Avoid Overly Sheltered Spots: Don't tuck plants away in tight, enclosed spaces where air cannot move freely.

By ensuring good air circulation, you create a less hospitable environment for many common houseplant pests and help your snake plant stay healthier and more resilient.

How do new plants or outdoor exposure cause insect infestation?

New plants and outdoor exposure are incredibly common ways insect infestations are introduced to your snake plant and other houseplants. These external sources act as direct pathways for pests to enter your otherwise pest-free indoor environment, often before you even realize there's a problem.

How do new plants bring pests into my home?

Bringing new plants into your home is arguably the most common way insect infestations start, often leading to a widespread issue if not managed. When you purchase a new plant, it comes from a nursery or store environment where conditions might be very different from your home, and it could already be harboring pests.

Here's why new plants are such a high risk for bringing in pests:

• Nursery/Store Environment:
  • High Density: Plants are often grown in very high density in nurseries, making it easy for pests to jump from plant to plant.
  • Variable Care: Watering, light, and humidity can vary, sometimes stressing plants and making them more vulnerable to pests.
  • Pesticide Use: Nurseries might use pesticides, masking an infestation. Once in your home, where no pesticides are used, the pest population can explode.
• Hidden Infestations: Many common houseplant pests are tiny, blend in with the plant, or hide in crevices. You might not see them at first glance.
  • Mealybugs: Often tucked into leaf axils or under leaves.
  • Spider Mites: Microscopic, often only visible by their tiny dots or webbing.
  • Fungus Gnats: Eggs or larvae are in the soil.
• Rapid Reproduction: Once in your home, if conditions are favorable (e.g., warm temperatures, consistent moisture), these pests can reproduce very quickly, leading to a noticeable infestation in just a few days or weeks.

The Solution: Quarantine!

To prevent new plants from introducing pests:

1. Thorough Inspection: Before buying, inspect every part of the plant:
   • Top and undersides of leaves: Look for spots, stickiness, cottony masses, or tiny moving specks.
   • Stems and crevices: Check tight spots where pests hide.
   • Soil surface and drainage holes: Look for adult fungus gnats or any larvae.
2. Quarantine New Plants: This is the most critical step.
   • Place new plants in a separate room or area, away from your existing plants, for 2-4 weeks.
   • During quarantine, inspect the plant daily or every other day for any signs of pests.
   • This isolation period allows any hidden pests to emerge and become visible before they can spread to your other plants.
   • If you find pests during quarantine, treat the plant immediately and keep it isolated until the infestation is completely gone.

By carefully inspecting and quarantining all new plant additions, you can significantly reduce the risk of bringing an unwanted insect infestation into your home and safeguarding your beloved snake plants.

What are the risks of outdoor exposure for snake plants and pest infestation?

While many gardeners enjoy moving their snake plants outdoors for the summer, this outdoor exposure carries significant risks of introducing insect infestations back into your home. Outdoor environments are teeming with a wider variety of pests, and they can easily hitch a ride back indoors on your plant.

Here are the risks of outdoor exposure and how they cause pest infestation:

• Abundance of Pests: Outdoors, your snake plant is exposed to countless insects that don't typically live indoors.
  • Aphids: Can easily migrate from other garden plants.
  • Spider Mites: May be present on nearby outdoor plants, and dry, hot conditions outdoors can exacerbate their populations.
  • Mealybugs: Can be transferred from infested outdoor plants.
  • Slugs/Snails: While not typically houseplant pests, they can feed on leaves outdoors.
  • Ants: Often "farm" mealybugs and aphids for their honeydew and can transport these pests to your plant.
• Natural Transfer: Pests can simply crawl, fly, or be blown onto your snake plant from other infested plants in your yard or garden.
• Hiding Places: The dense foliage of a snake plant offers ample hiding spots for pests seeking shelter or a new host.
• Return Indoors: When you bring your snake plant back inside, any pests that colonized it outdoors will now be in your relatively contained indoor environment, where they can thrive without natural predators and quickly spread to other houseplants.

Mitigating Outdoor Exposure Risks:

If you decide to move your snake plant outdoors, take these precautions:

1. Gradual Acclimatization: Don't suddenly move it from deep shade indoors to full sun outdoors. Gradually introduce it to brighter light over a week or two to prevent leaf scorch.
2. Strategic Placement: Place it in a location that gets the right light and airflow. Avoid placing it directly next to other plants that are known to have pest issues.
3. Regular Inspection (Outdoors): Continue to inspect your snake plant regularly while it's outside. Early detection is key.
4. Thorough Cleaning Before Bringing Indoors: This is the most crucial step!
   • Rinse Foliage: Before bringing the plant back inside (typically before night temperatures drop below 50°F / 10°C), thoroughly rinse the entire plant (leaves, stems, undersides) with a strong spray of water from a hose. This can dislodge many hitchhiking pests.
   • Inspect Soil: Check the soil surface and the bottom of the pot for any signs of critters.
   • Wipe Leaves: Wipe down leaves with a damp cloth or a dilute neem oil solution as an extra preventative measure.
   • Quarantine (Again!): Even after cleaning, it's wise to place the plant in a quarantine area for 2-4 weeks when it first comes back indoors, just like a new plant. This ensures any missed pests emerge before rejoining your other houseplants.

By understanding and managing the risks associated with outdoor exposure, you can enjoy the benefits of giving your snake plant some outdoor time while protecting your indoor collection from unwanted insect infestations.

How do I identify and treat common insect infestations in snake plants?

Identifying and treating common insect infestations in snake plants requires vigilance and a systematic approach. Early detection is crucial, as snake plants can hide pests well within their tight leaf structures. Once identified, a combination of manual removal and targeted treatments can effectively eliminate the problem.

What are the signs of common snake plant pest infestations?

Knowing the signs of common snake plant pest infestations is the first step in protecting your plant. Because snake plants are so resilient, they may not show obvious stress until an infestation is quite advanced. Regularly inspecting your plant will help you catch issues early.

Here's what to look for with common pests:

Mealybugs:

• Cottony Masses: The most obvious sign is small, white, fluffy or cottony masses, typically found in leaf crevices, where new leaves emerge, or along the undersides of leaves.
• Sticky Residue (Honeydew): A shiny, sticky substance on leaves or surfaces below the plant. This honeydew may also attract black sooty mold.
• Tiny White Insects: Upon closer inspection, you might see small, oval, white insects moving slowly within the cottony wax.
• Yellowing/Stunted Growth: In severe cases, leaves may start to yellow, or growth appears stunted due to sap-sucking.

Spider Mites:

• Stippling: Tiny, pinprick-sized yellow or silvery dots on the leaves, especially on the undersides. These can merge into larger discolored patches.
• Fine Webbing: Very fine, silky webbing, often found between leaves, in leaf axils, or at the leaf tips. This is a definitive sign of spider mites, particularly when infestations are advanced.
• Overall Dullness/Bronzing: Leaves may lose their healthy sheen and appear dull or take on a bronzed color.
• Tiny Moving Specks: You might see microscopic red, brown, or greenish specks moving on the leaf surface, often more visible against a white paper background after wiping a leaf.

Fungus Gnats:

• Small Flying Insects: Tiny, dark, mosquito-like flies hovering around the soil surface or flying erratically near the plant. They often emerge when the plant is watered or disturbed.
• Crawling in Soil: You might see the adult gnats crawling on the soil.
• Larvae (Less Common to See): If you gently scratch the top layer of soil, you might see tiny, clear, worm-like larvae with black heads, but these are often too small for the casual observer.
• Mild Wilting/Stunted Growth (Severe Cases): While adults don't harm the plant, heavy larval infestations can cause roots damage, leading to the plant looking generally unwell or growing slowly. This is less common in established snake plants but possible.

General Signs of Pest Stress:

• Sudden Wilting or Drooping
• Unexplained Yellowing or Browning of Leaves
• Holes or Chewed Edges (though less common for these specific pests)
• Small Bumps or Raised Areas on leaves
• General Decline in Plant Vigor

Regularly check your snake plant, paying close attention to leaf undersides and tight spaces, to catch these signs early.

What are effective, non-toxic treatments for snake plant pests?

For snake plant pest infestations, starting with effective, non-toxic treatments is always the best approach. These methods are safe for your home, pets, and the plant itself, and often highly successful, especially if infestations are caught early.

1. Isolation (Quarantine):
   • As soon as you notice pests, immediately move the infested snake plant away from all other houseplants. This prevents the pests from spreading.
   • Keep it isolated throughout the treatment period.
2. Manual Removal:
   • Wiping/Picking: For mealybugs, use a cotton swab or ball dipped in rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol). Dab each mealybug directly. The alcohol dissolves their waxy coating, killing them on contact. For light infestations, you can also just pick them off.
   • Spraying: For spider mites, thoroughly spray the entire plant (especially undersides of leaves) with a strong stream of water (e.g., in a sink or shower). This dislodges many mites and webs. Repeat frequently.
3. Neem Oil Spray:
   • How it Works: Neem oil is a natural insect growth regulator and repellent. It disrupts the feeding and reproduction cycle of many pests without directly poisoning them.
   • Application: Mix cold-pressed neem oil (look for a product like Neem Bliss) with water and a few drops of mild dish soap (as an emulsifier).
   • Thorough Coverage: Spray the entire plant, making sure to coat the tops and, most importantly, the undersides of all leaves. For fungus gnats, also spray the soil surface.
   • Frequency: Apply every 5-7 days for 2-4 weeks to break the pest life cycle. Test on a small area first to ensure no adverse reaction.
4. Insecticidal Soap:
   • How it Works: Insecticidal soap works by smothering soft-bodied insects like mealybugs and spider mites, and disrupting their cell membranes. It has low toxicity to humans and pets.
   • Application: Use a ready-to-use insecticidal soap spray or mix a concentrate according to package directions.
   • Thorough Coverage: Spray the entire plant, ensuring direct contact with the pests, especially on leaf undersides. It only works on contact.
   • Frequency: Repeat every 3-5 days for several weeks as needed.
5. For Fungus Gnats (Address Overwatering FIRST!):
   • Let Soil Dry Out: This is the most crucial step. Allow the top 2-3 inches of soil to dry out completely between waterings. Snake plants prefer this anyway, and it kills the gnat larvae.
   • Sticky Traps: Place yellow sticky traps near the plant to catch adult gnats. This helps reduce the breeding population.
   • Sand/Grit Top Dressing: A 1/2-inch layer of decorative sand, fine gravel, or diatomaceous earth on top of the soil can create a barrier, preventing adults from laying eggs in the moist soil and larvae from emerging.
   • Beneficial Nematodes: For severe, persistent gnat problems, consider introducing beneficial nematodes (Steinernema feltiae) to the soil. These microscopic worms prey on gnat larvae. You can find these at garden centers or online.

Important Treatment Principles:

• Consistency: Pest control is rarely a one-time fix. Repeat treatments are essential to catch newly hatched eggs and break the pest life cycle.
• Thoroughness: Pests hide! Be meticulous in your application, reaching all nooks and crannies.
• Patience: It takes time to eradicate an infestation. Don't get discouraged.
• Environmental Adjustments: After treatment, ensure you address the underlying causes (e.g., watering, light, air circulation) to prevent recurrence.

When should I repot an infested snake plant?

You should repot an infested snake plant strategically, primarily after initial treatments have significantly reduced the pest population, or if the infestation is heavily concentrated in the soil (like with severe fungus gnat larvae or root mealybugs). Repotting alone won't solve the problem, but it can be a crucial step in removing remaining pests and providing a fresh start for your plant.

Reasons to Repot an Infested Snake Plant:

1. Fungus Gnat Infestation: If you have a persistent fungus gnat problem and suspect larvae are overwhelming the soil, repotting into fresh, well-draining soil (after letting the old soil dry out) can help remove a significant portion of the larvae and eggs.
2. Root Mealybugs: If you discover root mealybugs (which look like tiny white cottony masses directly on the roots when you unpot the plant), repotting is essential. You'll need to clean the roots thoroughly before repotting.
3. Severe Infestation on Foliage (Combined with Root Check): If a foliar pest infestation is severe and you suspect the plant is generally weakened or if you notice unusual soil smells, checking the roots during repotting can reveal hidden issues like root rot which contribute to pest vulnerability.
4. Addressing Overwatering Damage: If overwatering has led to root rot, repotting is crucial. You'll need to remove all mushy, black roots, clean the remaining healthy roots, and repot into fresh, dry, well-draining soil.

Steps for Repotting an Infested Snake Plant:

1. Timing: Aim to repot after you've already applied some initial treatments (e.g., neem oil, insecticidal soap) to the foliage and have seen a reduction in adult pests. This prevents you from immediately re-infesting the new soil.
2. Gather Supplies:
   • Fresh, well-draining potting mix for succulents and cacti (important for snake plants).
   • A clean pot (the same size or slightly larger if the plant is root-bound). Wash old pots thoroughly with soap and water or a dilute bleach solution.
   • Gloves, sharp clean pruning shears, old newspapers/tarp.
3. Remove the Plant: Carefully unpot the snake plant.
4. Inspect and Clean Roots:
   • Gently shake off as much of the old soil as possible.
   • Inspect the roots for any signs of pests (root mealybugs) or root rot (mushy, black, or smelly roots).
   • For root mealybugs: Use a strong spray of water to wash off as many as possible. You can also dip the roots in a diluted solution of insecticidal soap or neem oil.
   • For root rot: Use clean, sharp shears to prune away all affected roots until you reach healthy, firm white tissue.
5. Repot:
   • Add a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom of the clean pot.
   • Center the snake plant in the pot.
   • Fill with more fresh potting mix, gently firming it around the roots. Ensure the base of the plant is at the same level as it was previously.
6. After Repotting:
   • Do NOT water immediately. This is crucial for snake plants after repotting, especially if you've dealt with root rot or fungus gnats. Allow the plant to settle and any trimmed roots to heal for at least a week, or even two weeks.
   • Resume watering sparingly only when the soil is completely dry and the plant shows signs of needing water.
   • Continue monitoring for pests and apply topical treatments to the foliage if needed.

Repotting is a significant stressor for a plant, so combine it with proper care and environmental adjustments to give your snake plant the best chance of recovery from insect infestation.