Container Asparagus: Your Guide to How to Grow Asparagus in Containers - Plant Care Guide
Learning how to grow asparagus in containers might seem challenging due to its reputation as a long-term garden crop, but it's a perfectly achievable goal for many gardeners. With the right approach to container selection, soil preparation, and ongoing care, you can enjoy fresh asparagus even if you have limited space or less-than-ideal garden soil. This method opens up possibilities for urban gardeners and those with small patios.
Why Grow Asparagus in Containers?
Choosing how to grow asparagus in containers offers several distinct advantages over traditional in-ground planting, making it an appealing option for various gardeners.
- Limited Space: This is perhaps the biggest benefit. If you have a small yard, a patio, balcony, or even just a sunny rooftop, containers allow you to cultivate asparagus where in-ground beds aren't an option.
- Poor Soil Conditions: Asparagus thrives in well-draining, rich soil. If your garden soil is heavy clay, rocky, or otherwise unsuitable, containers provide a perfect way to create the ideal growing medium from scratch, bypassing soil amendment challenges.
- Mobility: Containers offer the flexibility to move your asparagus. This can be beneficial for:
- Sunlight Optimization: Chasing the sun as seasons change.
- Winter Protection: Moving plants to a more sheltered location in colder climates.
- Pest/Disease Management: Isolating affected plants if issues arise.
- Weed Control: Weeds are much easier to manage in containers than in large garden beds. Less weeding means less competition for nutrients and water for your asparagus.
- Pest Control: While not entirely foolproof, containers can offer some defense against certain ground-dwelling pests.
- Drainage Control: You have complete control over soil drainage, which is crucial for asparagus. You can ensure there are adequate drainage holes and use a perfectly formulated potting mix.
- Accessibility: For gardeners with mobility issues, raised containers can make planting, caring for, and harvesting asparagus much more accessible and comfortable.
While in-ground planting might yield larger harvests over time for very extensive patches, the control and convenience offered by containers make how to grow asparagus in containers a very attractive and practical alternative for many.
What's the Best Container for Asparagus?
Choosing the right container is paramount when learning how to grow asparagus in containers. Asparagus has a deep and spreading root system (the "crown"), so it needs ample space to thrive and produce spears for years to come.
Key Considerations:
- Depth is Critical: Asparagus roots grow downwards. You need a container that is at least 18-24 inches deep (45-60 cm). Deeper is always better if you want a long-lasting, productive patch.
- Width is Important: While depth is crucial, width also matters as the crown expands outwards. Aim for a container that is at least 12-18 inches wide (30-45 cm) for a single crown. If planting multiple crowns, ensure adequate spacing (see "How to Plant Asparagus Crowns").
- Drainage Holes: This is non-negotiable. Asparagus absolutely hates wet feet. The container must have sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape freely. If a container lacks holes, you must drill them yourself.
- Material:
- Fabric Grow Bags: Excellent choice. They offer superb drainage and aeration, prevent root circling, and are relatively inexpensive. Look for 15-20 gallon fabric grow bags for one or two crowns.
- Large Plastic Pots: Durable, lightweight, and retain moisture well. Choose heavy-duty, food-grade plastic.
- Whiskey Barrels/Half Barrels: A classic and aesthetically pleasing choice, providing good depth and width. Ensure they are drilled for drainage.
- Large Ceramic or Terra Cotta Pots: Can be beautiful, but they are heavy, more expensive, and terra cotta can dry out quickly, requiring more frequent watering. Ensure they are thick-walled for better insulation.
- Wooden Planter Boxes: Can be built to custom dimensions, offering good depth and width. Use rot-resistant wood like cedar or redwood, or line with pond liner.
- Galvanized Tubs (with drainage): Can look stylish, but metal can heat up significantly in the sun, potentially cooking roots. Needs good drainage holes.
Recommended Container Sizes (for 1-2 crowns):
- Minimum: 15-20 gallon (approx. 18-20 inches deep and wide)
- Ideal: 25-30 gallon or larger, or a wooden raised bed that is at least 18-24 inches deep.
By selecting the right container, you're setting the stage for a long and productive asparagus harvest, a critical aspect of mastering how to grow asparagus in containers.
What's the Best Soil for Asparagus in Containers?
The right soil mix is paramount when learning how to grow asparagus in containers. Unlike garden soil, container mixes need to be light, well-draining, yet capable of retaining moisture and nutrients for an extended period.
Key Soil Requirements for Asparagus:
- Excellent Drainage: This cannot be stressed enough. Asparagus crowns will rot in soggy soil. The mix must allow water to flow through freely.
- Rich in Organic Matter: Asparagus is a heavy feeder and needs a nutrient-rich environment for optimal spear production.
- Light and Aerated: A dense, compacted soil mix will suffocate the roots. It needs to be loose enough for good air circulation.
Recommended Container Soil Mix:
A good DIY mix for asparagus in containers combines different components to meet these needs. Avoid using heavy garden soil, which compacts in containers.
- High-Quality Potting Mix (50-60%): Start with a premium, all-purpose potting mix as your base. Look for one that explicitly mentions "good drainage."
- Compost or Well-Rotted Manure (30-40%): This is essential for providing nutrients and improving soil structure. Use high-quality, finished compost or aged manure. Avoid fresh manure, which can burn roots.
- Perlite or Coarse Sand (10-20%): This is your drainage booster. Perlite is lightweight and helps with aeration. Coarse sand (horticultural grade, not play sand) also improves drainage but adds weight.
- Optional Amendments:
- Bone Meal: A natural source of phosphorus, good for root development. Add a small handful per container.
- Rock Phosphate: Another slow-release phosphorus source.
- Balanced Organic Fertilizer: You can mix in a granular slow-release organic fertilizer at planting time if your compost isn't super rich.
Mixing Your Soil:
- In a large wheelbarrow or on a tarp, thoroughly combine all your chosen components. Ensure an even distribution of materials.
- Pre-moisten the mix slightly before filling your containers. It should feel damp, like a wrung-out sponge, but not soggy.
Layering (Optional, for very deep containers):
For very deep containers (over 24 inches), some gardeners opt to add a layer of coarser material at the bottom (e.g., small, well-draining rocks or broken pottery shards) before adding the soil mix. This can help prevent the soil from compacting too much at the bottom and improve aeration, though it's less critical with a truly well-draining mix. Never use heavy fillers like packing peanuts.
By carefully creating and mixing your ideal soil mix, you'll provide the perfect foundation for healthy asparagus crowns, setting you up for success in how to grow asparagus in containers.
How Do You Choose Asparagus Crowns or Seeds?
When embarking on how to grow asparagus in containers, you have two main starting options: planting from seed or planting from crowns. Each has its pros and cons, especially when dealing with container growing.
1. Growing from Asparagus Seeds
- Pros:
- Cost-Effective: Seeds are significantly cheaper than crowns.
- Variety: Wider selection of varieties available as seed, including some that might be less common as crowns.
- Less Transplant Shock: Plants grown from seed in their final container generally experience less transplant shock, as their roots are never disturbed.
- Longer Life: Some argue that seed-grown asparagus, though taking longer to establish, can be more vigorous and long-lived because their root systems develop naturally from the start without being cut (as crowns are).
Cons:
- Time-Consuming: This is the biggest drawback. Asparagus seeds take a long time to germinate (often 3-6 weeks) and grow. You will wait at least 3 years before your first harvest.
- Lower Germination Rate: Not all seeds will sprout.
- Sexing: With traditional varieties, you'll get both male and female plants. Female plants produce berries (which are not edible and can be messy) and put energy into seed production, leading to fewer spears. Male plants are generally more productive. (Modern all-male hybrids solve this issue).
Process for Seeds:
- Start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before your last frost date, or direct sow outdoors after frost.
- Sow seeds about 1 inch deep in small pots or seed trays. Keep consistently moist.
- Once seedlings are a few inches tall, carefully transplant them into your large permanent containers, spacing them according to recommendations.
2. Growing from Asparagus Crowns (Recommended for Containers)
- Pros:
- Faster Harvest: This is the primary advantage. You can typically start a light harvest in the second year after planting, rather than waiting three years.
- All-Male Varieties: Most crowns sold are all-male hybrid varieties (e.g., 'Jersey Knight', 'Jersey Giant', 'Mary Washington 500W' if seeking an all-female alternative). Male plants produce more spears because they don't put energy into seed production. This is highly recommended for container growing, where yield per plant is maximized.
- Established Plants: Crowns are already one-year-old plants with established root systems, giving them a head start.
Cons:
- More Expensive: Crowns cost more than seeds, especially for all-male varieties.
- Limited Variety: Fewer unique varieties are available as crowns compared to seeds.
- Transplant Shock: While usually minimal, there is a small risk of transplant shock when planting crowns.
What are Crowns? Crowns are the dormant root systems of 1-year-old asparagus plants, typically shipped bare-root in early spring. They look like a central bud with many long, tangled roots spreading out.
Recommended Varieties for Containers:
When selecting varieties, consider all-male hybrids for maximum spear production, as they focus all their energy on spears, not seeds.
- 'Jersey Knight' / 'Jersey Giant': Very popular, high-yielding, disease-resistant all-male hybrids.
- 'Purple Passion': Another all-male variety, known for its sweet, tender purple spears.
- 'Mary Washington': A classic heirloom variety (produces both male and female plants), reliable but may yield less than modern hybrids. If you want seeds for an all-female patch, choose a 'Mary Washington' 500W.
For most gardeners learning how to grow asparagus in containers, starting with 1-year-old, all-male asparagus crowns is the most practical and rewarding choice, offering a quicker path to your first harvest.
How Do You Plant Asparagus Crowns in Containers?
The correct planting technique is crucial for setting up your asparagus crowns for long-term success when learning how to grow asparagus in containers. The unique shape of the crown requires a specific approach.
Best Time to Plant:
- Early Spring: Plant your dormant 1-year-old crowns in early spring, as soon as they arrive and the danger of hard frost has passed. This gives them the longest possible growing season to establish before winter.
Planting Steps:
- Prepare Your Container(s):
- Ensure your chosen container is clean and has ample drainage holes.
- Fill the bottom 6-8 inches of your large container with your prepared, well-draining soil mix.
- Create a Mound:
- In the center of the soil in your container, create a small, cone-shaped mound of soil. The mound should be tall enough so that when you place the crown on top, the "tentacles" of the roots can spread downwards over the sides of the mound.
- Position the Crown:
- Gently place one asparagus crown on top of the mound. Spread its roots out evenly around the mound, like a starfish. The central bud (the "crown") should be at the peak of the mound.
- Spacing: If planting more than one crown in a very large container (e.g., a half barrel), space crowns about 12-18 inches apart. Ensure each crown has its own mound.
- Cover Roots (Initially):
- Carefully cover the crown and roots with only 2-3 inches of your prepared soil mix. The central bud of the crown should still be near the surface, just lightly covered.
- Do not fill the container completely yet! This is a unique "trenching" method adapted for containers.
- Water Thoroughly:
- Water the container deeply and slowly. This helps settle the soil around the crown and eliminates any air pockets.
- Wait for Growth:
- Wait for the first asparagus spears (or "ferns") to emerge from the soil. This can take a few weeks.
- Gradually Fill Container:
- As the spears grow taller (about 6-8 inches high), gradually add more soil mix to the container, leaving the top 2-3 inches of the ferns exposed.
- Continue this process as the ferns grow, until the container is filled to about 1-2 inches from the rim. This gradual filling encourages stronger root development and pushes the crown deeper over time, which is crucial for container-grown asparagus.
Initial Care After Planting:
- Consistent Moisture: For the first few weeks after planting, keep the soil consistently moist (but never soggy) to help the crown establish.
- Sunlight: Ensure the container is placed in a location receiving full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day).
- No Harvest in Year 1: Do not harvest any spears in the first year. Let all spears grow into feathery ferns. This allows the plant to put all its energy into developing a strong root system, which is essential for future harvests.
By carefully following these planting instructions, you'll give your asparagus crowns the best possible start in their container home, setting the stage for successful how to grow asparagus in containers.
How Do You Care for Asparagus in Containers?
Consistent and appropriate care is vital for a productive asparagus plant in a container. Since their environment is more constrained than an in-ground bed, understanding these ongoing needs is key to long-term success when learning how to grow asparagus in containers.
1. Watering
- Consistent Moisture: Container plants dry out much faster than in-ground plants. Asparagus needs consistent moisture, especially during dry spells and throughout the growing season (spring through fall).
- Avoid Soggy Soil: While moist, never let the soil become waterlogged, as this will lead to root rot. Ensure excess water drains freely from the bottom of the container.
- Check Daily: During hot, sunny weather, check the soil moisture daily by sticking your finger an inch or two into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.
- Deep Watering: When you water, water deeply until water drains from the bottom. This encourages the roots to grow deeper.
2. Fertilizing
Asparagus is a heavy feeder, especially in containers where nutrients can leach out more quickly.
- Initial Feeding (if not amended): If you didn't mix in bone meal or a slow-release organic fertilizer during planting, you can apply a balanced granular organic fertilizer (e.g., 5-5-5 or 10-10-10) in early spring of the second year.
- Annual Feeding: After the first year, fertilize your container asparagus annually in early spring as new growth begins to emerge. Use a balanced organic fertilizer or one slightly higher in phosphorus and potassium.
- Post-Harvest Boost: Some gardeners also apply a light feeding of compost tea or a liquid organic fertilizer after the harvesting period ends (when you stop picking spears and let them fern out). This helps nourish the ferns as they replenish energy for next year.
- Compost Top-Dressing: Annually, in early spring, apply a 1-2 inch layer of rich compost as a top-dressing around the base of the ferns. This slowly releases nutrients and improves soil health.
3. Sunlight
- Full Sun: Asparagus needs full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day) to produce a good harvest.
- Move if Needed: The advantage of containers is you can move them to the sunniest spot in your yard as the sun's path changes throughout the season.
4. Weed Control
- Easy in Containers: Weeding is much simpler in containers. Pull any weeds as soon as you see them, as they compete directly with your asparagus for nutrients and water.
- Mulch: A thin layer of straw or shredded leaves can help suppress weeds and retain soil moisture.
5. Managing the Ferns (Foliage)
- Let Them Grow: After the harvest period ends (usually late spring/early summer), stop picking spears and allow them all to grow into tall, feathery ferns.
- Purpose of Ferns: These ferns photosynthesize (convert sunlight into energy), which is crucial for replenishing the energy stores in the crown for next year's spear production. Do NOT cut them back during the summer or fall.
- Staking (Optional): Tall ferns can sometimes flop over, especially in windy locations. You can use garden stakes and twine to support them if needed.
6. Winter Care (in Colder Zones)
Asparagus is winter-hardy, but container plants are more exposed to cold than in-ground plants.
- Prune in Late Fall: After the ferns turn yellow or brown and die back from the first hard frost, cut them back to about 2-3 inches above the soil level.
- Insulate Containers:
- Move: If possible, move containers to a sheltered, unheated location like a garage, shed, or unheated porch.
- Wrap: If the container must stay outdoors, insulate it. Wrap the container with burlap, bubble wrap, or even old blankets. You can also mound a thick layer of mulch around the outside of the container.
- Water Sparingly: Water very sparingly during winter, just enough to prevent the soil from completely drying out. Do not overwater, as dormant roots are highly susceptible to rot.
By following these care instructions diligently, your container-grown asparagus will remain healthy and productive for many years, making your efforts in how to grow asparagus in containers truly rewarding.
When Can You Harvest Asparagus in Containers?
The most exciting part of learning how to grow asparagus in containers is, of course, the harvest! However, patience is key, especially in the first couple of years, to ensure the long-term health and productivity of your plants.
The "Wait" Period:
- Year 1 (Planting Year): NO HARVEST.
- This is the most critical year for establishment. Allow all spears to grow into full, feathery ferns.
- The plant needs to put all its energy into developing a strong, robust root system. Harvesting now will weaken the plant and significantly delay future production or even kill it.
- Year 2 (First Light Harvest):
- You can begin a very light harvest in the second year.
- Harvest for only 1-2 weeks maximum, or until spears become thin (pencil-thin or smaller).
- The goal is still to allow the plant to build energy. If spears start coming up very thin, stop harvesting and let the rest fern out.
- Year 3 and Beyond (Full Harvest):
- From the third year onwards, your asparagus should be well-established and ready for a full harvest season.
- The harvest period typically lasts for 4-8 weeks, or until the spears start becoming noticeably thinner (around the diameter of a pencil).
How to Harvest Asparagus Spears:
- Timing: Harvest spears when they are typically 6-10 inches tall and about the thickness of your finger or a pencil. Thicker spears are often more tender.
- Method:
- Snap Method: The traditional way is to bend the spear near the soil line. It will naturally snap off at its tenderest point.
- Cutting Method: Alternatively, use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the spear about 1-2 inches below the soil line. Be careful not to damage newly emerging spears or the crown.
- Frequency: During the harvest season, check your asparagus daily, as spears can grow rapidly. Harvest them when they reach the desired size to encourage more production.
Knowing When to Stop Harvesting:
- The asparagus plant will signal when it's time to stop harvesting.
- Thinning Spears: When the majority of new spears that emerge are consistently thinner than a pencil (more like a shoelace), it's time to stop harvesting.
- Fern Development: Allow all subsequent spears to grow into full, feathery ferns. These ferns are essential for replenishing the crown's energy reserves for the following year's harvest. If you continue to harvest when spears are thin, you risk exhausting the crown and reducing future yields.
By exercising patience and following these harvesting guidelines, you'll ensure your container-grown asparagus provides you with delicious fresh spears for many years, making all your efforts in how to grow asparagus in containers worthwhile.
What Are Common Problems When Growing Asparagus in Containers?
Even with careful planning, you might encounter a few issues when learning how to grow asparagus in containers. Knowing common problems and their solutions can help you quickly address them and keep your plants healthy.
1. Root Rot
- Cause: This is the most common and serious problem, almost always due to poor drainage or overwatering. Asparagus crowns are extremely susceptible to rotting in soggy soil.
- Symptoms: Wilting, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and eventually the plant's demise. The roots will feel soft and mushy.
- Solution:
- Prevention is Key: Ensure your container has ample drainage holes. Use a well-draining potting mix (as discussed in "Best Soil"). Avoid placing a saucer under the pot that collects water, or empty it immediately.
- If Suspected: If you catch it early, you might be able to carefully lift the crown, trim off any rotted parts with a sterile knife, let it air dry for a day, and replant in fresh, drier soil. However, severe root rot is usually fatal.
2. Stunted Growth or Low Yield
- Cause:
- Lack of Sunlight: Not enough full sun.
- Insufficient Nutrients: Asparagus are heavy feeders.
- Too Small a Container: Not enough room for root development.
- Over-Harvesting (especially in early years): Taking too many spears too soon, depleting the crown's energy.
- Compacted Soil: Soil breaking down and compacting over time, reducing aeration.
- Solution:
- Sun: Move containers to a spot with at least 6-8 hours of direct sun.
- Fertilize: Follow annual fertilizing guidelines, and consider compost top-dressing.
- Container Size: Ensure your container is deep and wide enough.
- Harvesting Patience: Strictly follow the "no harvest year 1, light harvest year 2" rule.
- Revitalize Soil: Every few years, you might need to carefully remove the top few inches of old soil and replace with fresh, nutrient-rich potting mix and compost.
3. Asparagus Beetles
- Cause: These small, colorful beetles (common asparagus beetle and spotted asparagus beetle) feed on spears and ferns. Their larvae can cause significant damage.
- Symptoms: Chewed spears, skeletonized ferns, tiny black eggs glued to spears or ferns.
- Solution:
- Hand-Pick: For container plants, hand-picking beetles and larvae off the plants daily is very effective. Drop them into soapy water.
- Monitor Eggs: Scrape off or crush any small black eggs.
- Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): If infestations are severe, an organic pesticide containing Bt (specifically Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki for caterpillars, though some beetle larvae may also be affected by a different Bt strain, Bt tenebrionis or Bt san diego, if found) might be used, but generally cultural practices are preferred.
- Encourage Beneficials: Attract ladybugs and lacewings, which prey on beetle larvae.
- Clean Up: In fall, remove and destroy all asparagus ferns after they die back to prevent beetles from overwintering.
4. Asparagus Rust (Fungus)
- Cause: A fungal disease favored by humid, wet conditions.
- Symptoms: Reddish-brown spots on ferns, sometimes powdery orange or red pustules. Can weaken the plant and reduce future yields.
- Solution:
- Good Air Circulation: Ensure adequate spacing between plants (if multiple in a large container) and good air circulation around the container.
- Watering: Water at the base of the plant, avoiding wetting the foliage, especially in the evening.
- Resistant Varieties: Choose rust-resistant varieties like 'Jersey Knight' or 'Mary Washington 500W'.
- Sanitation: In fall, cut back and destroy all ferns after they yellow to remove fungal spores. Do not compost diseased ferns.
5. Weeds
- Cause: Competition for water and nutrients.
- Symptoms: Weeds growing in the container.
- Solution:
- Hand-Pull: Easily hand-pull weeds as soon as they appear.
- Mulch: Apply a thin layer of straw or shredded leaves as mulch to suppress weeds.
By understanding these potential issues and implementing timely solutions, you can keep your container-grown asparagus healthy and productive for many years to come, making your journey in how to grow asparagus in containers a success.